Well, bought another new to me SS

Location: Michigan - 3 hours north of Chicago on the lake
Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Points: 539

Well, bought another new to me SS - Toro 210R
Original Message Feb 13, 2012 7:33 pm

That brings the Toro count to five. It really needs to snow so I can get rid of a couple. Or just stop counting. Got this one at another auction for $29.00 .
Said it needed a flywheel... It does and has a few more issues, But the rest of the blower is in excellent condition. 2010 model 210R 38517

Flywheel is junk. This is like the chicken or the egg thing. Don't know what could cause this.
Unless the nut backed off. But the magneto did get trashed. Nor did the recoil.
So what ever happened it happened fast. Ive seen keys shear if the engine does a massive seize.
Or drops a rod off the crank. But I've never seen a hub crack even thought it's aluminum.

Tore up the key way slot as well.
What's interesting is that the slot is flared out on both sides.
There is galling on the crank so the flywheel did spin at least a couple of times.
Maybe someone installed the wrong size key? Which allowed it to tip in the slot first.
Then things just started to happen.

Took out the governor parts.

Am finding out some interesting things. Such as, I've got a flywheel off of a 1999 Toro CCR2400 and according to
the Toro Parts Master. The two engines (084132-0120-E1) are the same and they both use the same flywheel.
I say they are the same, but one is an E1 and the 210R is and E8 not really sure what that is?
They also both use the same crank. And I have the crank as well.
Haven't decided exactly what I'm going to do with the key way slot. The slot still has some pretty good sides but
the top portion is pretty bad. I may just eith tack weld a new key in place on the sides. Then square it back up with a with a cutting wheel
on a Dremel. Not sure. I cleaned it up and it doesn't look to bad.

The casing is so close to the auger pulley that you can't get the belt off without taking off the pulley. The casing doesn't appear to be bent.
From what I could see. That's a pain.

The cutting edge / scraper tilts under spring tension. And is much beefier than the older ones. It would also be easier to replace.
Two bolts, and they are in a much better location. Won't take as much abuse and rust as badly.

The tank just slips on a mounting post. That's it, no other supports other than the neck going through the top cover.

And there is a little "tang" that hooks on the edge of the oval opening that keeps it from sliding off. Once you push it all the way down and on.
Which it is not in the photo.

Overall the thing is in really good condition.
I also looked down the plug hole and there isn't any carbon at all on the head of the piston, none.
Which is a little strange.

This message was modified Feb 13, 2012 by jrtrebor

borat

Joined: Nov 10, 2007
Points: 2692

Re: Well, bought another new to me SS - Toro 210R
Reply #23 Feb 15, 2012 12:47 pm

aa335 wrote:

I don't know much about the RD350 engine but from the pictures, that's looks very compact for an engine that size. Is that an oversquare engine with HUGE ports? Seems like that engine would love to breathe and rev high, has a huge appetite for fuel and oil too. I can see now why you have the Toro 221QE and Tecumseh powered SS in your stable.

Thanks for posting the pictures. Definitely off topic, but I don't mind. I enjoy seeing labor of love restoration of legendary machines. BTW, didn't these machines at the time had drum brakes? Does the black powder coating over the cooling fins of the engine reduce cooling efficiency?

The stock bike was around 350 lbs. and 39 h.p. My yellow RD is 300 lbs. and making a conservative 50 h.p. The engine is over-square and the porting is stock although was a bit radical from the manufacturer. Power band is none too wide in stock form hence the sudden burst of power and willingness to wheelie. With the programmable electronic ignition, the power band is much wider and the bike is much more manageable. Reasonable torque at lower rpm and a real kick in the pants at anything past 5000 rpm depending on which gear it's in. The bike can be either easy or hard on fuel. All depends on how you're riding.

The 1973 RD350 was the first of the Yamaha two strokes to come out with a disk front brake and rear hub brake. Which, on a bike this light is more than enough brakes. I've got a 350cc, 1972 Yamaha R5 in my shed waiting for it's turn in the garage. It's got hub brakes front and rear. Another major difference between the R5 and RD is that the R5 has a piston port engine. The RDs have reeds and were advertised as having "Torque Induction" due to the addition of reeds.

I did quite a bit of research on the powder coating of the engine. Older (thicker) applications may possibly have insulated the fins somewhat but not of any significance. New applications which are thinner but just as durable have virtually no effect on cooling. It's also a known fact that black painted engines dissipate heat better.   Speaking of heat dissipation, the programmable ignition, as well as shaving the squish band off of the cylinder heads contribute considerably to engine cooling efficiency. Adjusting the timing to expedite hot exhaust gasses from the cylinder into the expansion chamber as well as very free flowing exhaust help keep the engine relatively cool. From what I've read, shaving .030 from the squish band improves flame travel and gas flow which helps cooling.

I'm not an expert by any means and all of my knowledge has been garnered from the brains of true two cycle fanatics.   The most desired two cycles are the Yamaha RDs, followed by the Kawasaki triples. RDs in the US are cult status. They'll be with us for a long time providing people with interest keep them alive.

This message was modified Feb 15, 2012 by borat

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