Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I have an HH60 engine on a 1981 or so Troy bilt tiller. It ran fine for years but the summer broke a rod. (I think it was low on oil). I have taken the engine apart. No gouges in the sylinder or holes anywhere. There is a small ridge at the top of the cylinder that you can barely scratch a fingernail on. I put the old piston and rings in and my hand over the top of the cylinder. It seems to have alot of suction/compression when pulling the piston from the bottom.

There is aluminum on the crankshaft . I will try the muratic acid trick I have read elsewhere on here.

Question is, is this worth rebuilding? I like tinkering with stiff but money is a conern. I like this motor because it has electric start on it. ROds are expenesive as the one for my model number says it is 40 bucks.

Should I re-ring it? I have a cylinder hone from harbor freight I bought the other day. I have never used one. I dont have a ridge reamer but might be bale to rent one at Autozone.

It ran well before this happened except now that I recall a week or so before it went, faint white smoke cam out of the exhaust when it was reved up.

ANy advice? Do I need to mike everythign out to an automobile's engine precision or since this is a tiller just clean the crank, bolt a new rod and rings and go with it?

I have been takign off parts and cleaning them. The head did seem to have alot of carbon but was easily cleaned.

I think it may have been rebuilt before as the engine paint is oversprayed in places. The piston was stammped STD which I assumes means it is stadard sized.

Thanks again!

Check this site out to see if they have a suitable replacement engine.  They sell all kinds of brands and many levels of durability ratings.  Their prices are very good as well.  

  http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/default.asp

Just get in the phone book for starters with you modle and type/ serial....   Any good Tecumseh dealer should be able to give you a price (if available).... if you can get a shortblock part# ...   or email some of the dealers/ wharehouses on the web.  They should be able to quote you a price....  

I would be real leary of just ording a rod for a hh60....   I have ordered rods before and found the journal the wrong diameter because I wrote the serial or type down wrong..

I would call a few dealers in your area and ask if they have a new old stock rod for your engine or and aftermarket form a company like Rotory  Corporation or Billlues.(spelling?).

This is the rod you are talking about (aftermarket).   call this place up, ask them their opinion...  Can't hurt...

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/searchdb_more_info.cfm?part_num=510218&format=site_search

Friiy

FOR>>  "As far as the mageto, I read somewhere the only adjustment was to turn it counterclockwise as far as it will go before tightening screws."

    If you are refereing to the points enclosure then no.  There's a procedure for setting the location. 

   The rod for your engine 34750 is in the drawing below, instock for 31.42.   It's listed at TulsaEngineWarehouse online see below:

http://www.outdoordistributors.com/pdf/Tecumseh/TECUMSEH-MODEL-HH60-105116H-PARTS-LIST.pdf

 

http://search.cartserver.com/search/search.cgi?cartid=a-8671&category=TecumsehPDF&maxhits=5&keywords=105116H&go=GO%21

http://tewarehouse.com/34750

 

Item:  34750

CONN ROD

Sale Price: $31.42Qty:      

 

In Stock: Available

 

34750 CONN ROD ** Tecumseh Special Order Item. Allow 1-2 extra days for delivery.

David

Thanks so much. I guess 31 bucks is not bad. Part of me wants to just buy a 200 dollar 5 horse Brigs and be done with it but I already have the thing apart and am learnign alot.

One think I am worried about is once I get all this aluminum off the crank that my journal might ba a little undersized. Will this be a huge problem. I will say this thing ran great right until the rod broke.

I am afraid of putting too much money in this in case it is a failure. I am thinking rod, rings, basic gaskets. What do you guys think? DO I need anythign else?

I am really, really intrigued on what the actual difference would be between the 34750 rod and the 3180C rod. The specifications for the crankpin and throw are the same. When I have looked online at ebay the inside of the cases look the same with the exception of one has a place for a crankshaft bearing and ones like mine use bushings.  I really wonder if they are interchangeable? Does anyone know what the difference would be? I have yet to find an actual picture of the 34750 rod.

By the way, I called every local Techumseh dealer and non of them have new old stock for the rod.

It seems no one has the 37450 rod. I checked with the guys at Tulsa and they did not have it either. Someone else emailed me and thought the 3180C would work, that the only difference was the other number had a separat oil dipper that attached to the rod bolts where the 3180C was a one piece unit. But I am not sure if he knows for sure or not.

I have found the 3180C on AMazon for 17 dollars. WOuld it be stupid as a learning experience to get this but it back togther bare bones with maybe new rings and see what happens?

I did email the company that makes the 3180C and they said it shows it should work. Again, not getting definite answers.

Hi Stryped.  I, too, am looking for a 34750 connecting rod.  Did you determine if the 31380C would work?

I've had local dealers call Tecumseh directly to help determine this... to no avail.  They are unwilling to give any information.

Thanks in advance,  Techjunkiedb (Dan)

I recently purchased a Troy Built Horse for real cheap, because the egine had no compression. Few days later when I got time to tear into it found the connecting rod busted. Like others, I am committed to leaving the original engine on the tiller, so that leaves no option but the repair. Plus, I might get my wife to use this since it's got electric start.

So.....I ordered a rebuild kit from a guy selling them on ebay for 69.99 plus S&H. I'll be getting a new piston, rod, rings, and gasket set. I think the connecting rod it comes with is the 3180C. I'm guessing the 37450 is the original part and the C is an aftermarket. Plus, from the photo's it looks as if the oil dipper config is slightly different. If it interferes it's nothing a file or grinder won't take care of. I can always fashion my own dipper out of some sheet metal.

I'll post a reply to update you all (if anyone is still reading this thread) to see if the C version of the rod works. Actually the rings and the piston are in great shape but since I've got it out I'm going to hone for about 30 secenods, re ring it. Since it's cast iron the walls are not scarred or ridged at all. Also planning on pulling the valves and maybe clean them up with some lapping compound.

Happy tilling....

Cool, let us know how it works out...

I think the a,b,c designation on the part number is a mod from the original design drawing...

Friiy

ive been all over the internet looking for the 34750 rod.  ive called all the Tecumseh authorized dealers/repair shops in my area and even got put on a list where dealers all over the us will look at their stock to find that connecting rod.  it is NOT available to my dismay .  I even tried contacting a few custom engine part manufacturers and the cost is prohibitive on making a few one off rods (each rod would be something like $200). the best option we have is to use another rod from a different spec HH60 tecumseh engine.  the only two options i have been able to find are as follows:

http://www.psep.biz/store/tecumseh_connecting_rods.htm

stens 510-218 connecting rod ($15.95)
tecumseh 31380c connecting rod ($29.95)

unfortunately, I'm pretty sure i read a thread where somebody tried using the 31380c connecting rod and the rod failed after approximately 100 hours of use.  i dont know what condition his engine was in.  i dont know if the crank journal where the connecting rod attaches was undersized contributing to abnormal wear and premature failure.  i dont know if this person changed his oil every 25hours of use or more.  there are MANY unknowns but what i am sure of is that he was able to get the engine running for some time before it failed.  since we all have concerns with this connecting rod, I would use it and treat the maintenance of the engine as if was under the MOST extreme conditions.

just my two cents.

Have you called Jack's small engine and asked if there is a short block still available for that model?

Friiy