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Axis


Joined: Dec 25, 2012
Points: 20

Aftermarket Carbs
Original Message   Dec 31, 2012 1:51 pm
Went to replace a carb I recently cleaned up, only because I thought having a new carb would be an assurance that the blower would be good to go and reliable when on demand.

Bought what was supposed to be an original Tecumseh part on Amazon, but received one made by Ruxing. 

Does this brand work OK, or should I replace with the real OEM? 
This message was modified Dec 31, 2012 by Axis
Replies: 14 - 18 of 18Next page of topicsPreviousAllView as Outline
kdez


Location: Ludlow, MA
Joined: Feb 4, 2009
Points: 45

Re: Aftermarket Carbs
Reply #14   Jan 11, 2013 10:29 am
Trouts,

I have to rebuild a diaphragm type carb this weekend.  Ive never done that before.  Any resources or tricks you can point me towards?

It is a tecumseh 632117

Dan

trouts2




Location: Marlboro MA
Joined: Dec 8, 2007
Points: 1328

Re: Aftermarket Carbs
Reply #15   Jan 11, 2013 11:04 am
   No real advice.  For diaphragm type I usually don't get a kit, just the diaphragm. 

   Exploded view of that carb:

   http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=tecumseh&mn=CA-632117&dn=CASERIES_071632117-CA

   Decent service manual on diaphragm types at the Walboro site:

   http://www.walbro.com/servicemanuals.aspx
jtclays


Joined: Aug 7, 2011
Points: 16

Re: Aftermarket Carbs
Reply #16   Jan 11, 2013 1:31 pm
kdez,  Short tips on your rebuild.  Pay attention to the "F" designation on the carb body, it dictates whether the gasket or diaphragm go against the bottom plate.  Sand lightly or wire wheel the bottom plate as clean as you can get it.  It's junk metal and won't shine, but you can't have any white powdery residue looking crap left, especially at the edges of the gasket/diaphragm engagement surface!
Make sure the metal side of the diaphragm is up toward the needle valve, otherwise when you blow the air into the primer line it won't go up and hit the needle valve to release fuel. 
Don't know on your specific one, but the main jet nut size is likely 9/32" and a fat, cheap socket won't fit right and you can strip it easy........I say from experience :-)
When you remove the main jet/needle seat make sure the washer (usually part #56 in diagrams) comes out with the old stuff.  If not, look around in there, it'll drive you nuts upon reassembly if it it's still in there!
Pay special attention when "probing" with wires or blowing air INTO or OUT OF the main fuel inlet.  There is a check valve in there between the hose nipple and carb body.   On the oldie style Toro S-200/620 carbs, that part is no longer available.  You can kill it easy with a wire probe thinking you are feeling blockage........I say from experience :-)
kdez


Location: Ludlow, MA
Joined: Feb 4, 2009
Points: 45

Re: Aftermarket Carbs
Reply #17   Jan 13, 2013 9:51 am
jtclays,

thanks so much for the tips!  i will let you know how I make out.

kdez


Location: Ludlow, MA
Joined: Feb 4, 2009
Points: 45

Re: Aftermarket Carbs
Reply #18   Jan 14, 2013 8:08 pm
trouts2 wrote:
   No real advice.  For diaphragm type I usually don't get a kit, just the diaphragm. 

   Exploded view of that carb:

   http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=tecumseh&mn=CA-632117&dn=CASERIES_071632117-CA

   Decent service manual on diaphragm types at the Walboro site:

   http://www.walbro.com/servicemanuals.aspx


Thanks!
Replies: 14 - 18 of 18Next page of topicsPreviousAllView as Outline
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