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Axis


Joined: Dec 25, 2012
Points: 20

Aftermarket Carbs
Original Message   Dec 31, 2012 1:51 pm
Went to replace a carb I recently cleaned up, only because I thought having a new carb would be an assurance that the blower would be good to go and reliable when on demand.

Bought what was supposed to be an original Tecumseh part on Amazon, but received one made by Ruxing. 

Does this brand work OK, or should I replace with the real OEM? 
This message was modified Dec 31, 2012 by Axis
Replies: 12 - 18 of 18Next page of topicsPreviousAllView as Outline
Axis


Joined: Dec 25, 2012
Points: 20

Re: Aftermarket Carbs
Reply #12   Jan 2, 2013 2:08 pm
It's written that the open end of the float needle faces toward the air in side.  Something about possibly binding if it's reversed.

Funny, you're having a good time with the rubber tip needles because the OEM design failed, I'm treating the seat of the OEM with respect (blew air into it, not against it while cleaning; the reverse of what trouts2 wrote but the result is the same) because it's never failed and look at the rubber tip design with trepidation of change.

Started it up today for the fun of it.  One pull!  Then I underchoked it for a quick stall but still started right up again.  As written above, it's a fussy little bugger.

How can I tell if the engine has points or is solid state?
trouts2




Location: Marlboro MA
Joined: Dec 8, 2007
Points: 1328

Re: Aftermarket Carbs
Reply #13   Jan 2, 2013 2:33 pm

>>and have the unused Chinese one on the shelf

    Or return it and get a used OEM from a dealer.    Some dealers keep a box full. 

>>I'd also like to find out how old this motor is, and if has points or solid state coil.

    Solid state.  The coil is above the flywheel  on models which use the Tecumseh carb that crosses to the Stens number. 

Sort of interesting side note is the Stens part is listed for 8 & 9hp’s and the OEM number it replaces 8hps only.

>>I recently read a reference in “Small Gas Engine Repair” by Paul Dempsey, to be sure there is a fuel shut off if the seat is elastomer as they leak.

    Weird as that basically means stretchy,  rubbery, returns to it’s original shape…    There are many  millions of Tecumseh engines out there with rubber like seats that are fine and most for many years.  Given the low presssure of the float I doubt a hard seat would work. 

>> I’ve read that there is an orientation to the clip that holds the needle, however I can’t figure out why this is?

   The clip points to the throat opening.    I’ve installed both ways and never noticed a difference. 

kdez


Location: Ludlow, MA
Joined: Feb 4, 2009
Points: 44

Re: Aftermarket Carbs
Reply #14   Jan 11, 2013 10:29 am
Trouts,

I have to rebuild a diaphragm type carb this weekend.  Ive never done that before.  Any resources or tricks you can point me towards?

It is a tecumseh 632117

Dan

trouts2




Location: Marlboro MA
Joined: Dec 8, 2007
Points: 1328

Re: Aftermarket Carbs
Reply #15   Jan 11, 2013 11:04 am
   No real advice.  For diaphragm type I usually don't get a kit, just the diaphragm. 

   Exploded view of that carb:

   http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=tecumseh&mn=CA-632117&dn=CASERIES_071632117-CA

   Decent service manual on diaphragm types at the Walboro site:

   http://www.walbro.com/servicemanuals.aspx
jtclays


Joined: Aug 7, 2011
Points: 16

Re: Aftermarket Carbs
Reply #16   Jan 11, 2013 1:31 pm
kdez,  Short tips on your rebuild.  Pay attention to the "F" designation on the carb body, it dictates whether the gasket or diaphragm go against the bottom plate.  Sand lightly or wire wheel the bottom plate as clean as you can get it.  It's junk metal and won't shine, but you can't have any white powdery residue looking crap left, especially at the edges of the gasket/diaphragm engagement surface!
Make sure the metal side of the diaphragm is up toward the needle valve, otherwise when you blow the air into the primer line it won't go up and hit the needle valve to release fuel. 
Don't know on your specific one, but the main jet nut size is likely 9/32" and a fat, cheap socket won't fit right and you can strip it easy........I say from experience :-)
When you remove the main jet/needle seat make sure the washer (usually part #56 in diagrams) comes out with the old stuff.  If not, look around in there, it'll drive you nuts upon reassembly if it it's still in there!
Pay special attention when "probing" with wires or blowing air INTO or OUT OF the main fuel inlet.  There is a check valve in there between the hose nipple and carb body.   On the oldie style Toro S-200/620 carbs, that part is no longer available.  You can kill it easy with a wire probe thinking you are feeling blockage........I say from experience :-)
kdez


Location: Ludlow, MA
Joined: Feb 4, 2009
Points: 44

Re: Aftermarket Carbs
Reply #17   Jan 13, 2013 9:51 am
jtclays,

thanks so much for the tips!  i will let you know how I make out.

kdez


Location: Ludlow, MA
Joined: Feb 4, 2009
Points: 44

Re: Aftermarket Carbs
Reply #18   Jan 14, 2013 8:08 pm
trouts2 wrote:
   No real advice.  For diaphragm type I usually don't get a kit, just the diaphragm. 

   Exploded view of that carb:

   http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=tecumseh&mn=CA-632117&dn=CASERIES_071632117-CA

   Decent service manual on diaphragm types at the Walboro site:

   http://www.walbro.com/servicemanuals.aspx


Thanks!
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