Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

(thread updated 12/15/13, same problem!)


I was negligent last year and never put my new 11.5HP Platinum Ariens into storage.  It sat with 1/2 tank of fuel from the dealer, was never used during that remarkable winter and now.... when I tried starting it not a thing happened.  The motor turned over without a sputter.

Having learned a few things from reading this board (thank you) I found the carb and cleaned out the not surprisingly clogged jet with a single strand of wire from lamp cord.  The bottom of the bowl was clean, I reused the bowl gaskets tightening things enough that it didn't leak.  I didn't want to overdo it.  It started immediatly

I then added 1/2 tank of fresh gas to the 1/2 tank of old gas that came with it, some Stabil, and inflated the tires to 18PSI.

Some questions:
1)  Should I check on or clean anything else? 

2)  Is there a service manual for the engine?  Just looking at it, I didn't know which cover to remove to find the carb and still don't know which cover the spark plug is hiding under.  I see generic instructions for operating the engine, but not for service.

3)  The inside of the bowl was uniform all around, and there's a tail of sorts molded into the exterior underside.  Does it matter which direction it's installed?  I know with the older carbs it does, but it didn't seem to matter with this one.

Of interest, I had an older 9526DLE stored next to it, under similar circumstances, and it started instantly. 

Nothing else engine-wise needs to be attended to if it starts and runs well.  Might want to check/clean the spark plug.

How much time is on the oil in the engine? 

Is it a Briggs and Stratton engine?  If so, you can go to the B&S web site and get all the info you need. 

Have you greased the augers?  Should be a couple zerk fitting on the auger tubes for that purpose.  Eighteen psi in the tires is too much.  Reduce it to 8 to 10 psi.  You'll get better traction. 

I'd pull the pan off the bottom and oil the chains and sprockets.  Be careful not to get oil on the friction disk/wheel.  Check/lube cables and any other moving parts that look like they should be lubed. 

Pull the wheels and lube the axles. 

Probably would have been better to drain out all the old gas and start fresh.  Is there any sediment visible in the tank?  If it starts easily and runs well, I'd just leave it for now.  But don't forget to store it properly at the end of winter.

Dang Borat gets faster every day!

It's a new, well now it's a year old, snowblower that's never seen snow.  

I guess I can postpone the above recommendations for awhile and just enjoy it if it ever snows around here again.

Can a fuel filter be added?

Thanks.

newtonian wrote:

Yes, easily. Just pick up an inline filter at an auto parts store. Know the size of your line - probably 1/4". They usually come with clamps but pick up 2 if it doesn't. Find a suitable spot, cut the line and install it.

Note that a filter won't help with bad gas or water, just dirt.

Update: just remembered some filters are directional - there will be an arrow that should point away from the tank and towards the carb.

I personally would not mix good gas in with  bad gas.  I would drain all of the gas out of the tank and fill it with new gas and stabil.

i have a 1986 ariens 8 hp tecumseh that still starts first pull. the bowl has been off several times to clean the high speed jet ,retorqued some loose head bolts two seasons ago,and keep fresh gas with fuel conditioner  in it.the one most important thing iv'e learned with all my seasonal use gas powered engines is at the end of the season shut the fuel off and run the engine till it runs out of fuel.

mkd55 wrote:
Agree entirely with the above.  That's what I do.

I have no issues mixing old gas with new gas if the old fuel isn't too degraded.  However, if I do, I run the machine to burn the blend off right away then add more fresh fuel.

Alway drain the tank and run the carb dry for storage purposes. 

newtonian wrote:

I've got the same model that you have.  I hate to be the bearer of bad news but it is an 1150 series B&S polar force motor which means 11.5 ft/lbs of torque, NOT 11.5 hp.  Actual hp rating for this motor is in the 8.5 range, give or take.  This is still very good compared to many new 24" 2 stage machines that are using 179 & 208cc engines (around 5.5hp & 6.5hp).   At least the 250cc B&S Polar Force has ball bearings on the crankshaft main journals as opposed to sleeve bearings.  The latest Polar Force also has a cast iron cylinder sleeve...not sure if this is new or if it has always been there.  Perhaps Snowmann can verify when these extra features came into play on Polar Force motors. 

I found some gas in my area that does not have ethanol. That solves a lot of problems. I believe the web site is pure-gas.org. I buy 1 gallon at a time and put some stabil and seafoam in it immediately. Also shut the fuel off and let the carb run dry when done. A fuel filter wont stop gas from going bad and turning to varnish in the carb. Also that ethanol starts to separate and go bad immediately.