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Clay


Location: Wis
Joined: Dec 3, 2008
Points: 111

John Deere 1130 SE
Original Message   Jan 7, 2009 1:07 pm
I did a search and found a few references to this machine but no answers.  Any one have one of these?  15.5 snow max engine, heated hand grips, 30" wide.  I can't find a listing for auger diameter or impeller diameter.  I called John Deere and the guy that was suppose to be the snow thrower expert didn't know either. 

What is the Easy Steer drive system?  The literature says: 

  • Easy Steer® drive system giving continuous power to both wheels and auto speed adjustment
  • Is it similar to the Ariens auto differential? 

    I've heard that the units are built by B&S which translates to Simplicity.  They do have cast iron gear cases like the Simplicity.  The chute control is different than the simplicity and so is the turning method so they are not exactly the same.  I'm trying to compare the Simplicity L1530E to the JD 1130SE.  Any help would be appreciated.

    Rick

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    Catt


    Location: Minnesota
    Joined: Oct 16, 2009
    Points: 196

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #291   Dec 8, 2010 2:00 am

    aa335,

    I did get the Toro Powerclear 180 which I use for very light snow falls.  It’s worked very well, but earlier this season we had a very heavy wet snow.  The Toro was pretty useless in that situation.  More recently we had fluffy snow and it worked like a champ through that. 

    trouts2




    Location: Marlboro MA
    Joined: Dec 8, 2007
    Points: 1328

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #292   Dec 25, 2010 7:25 pm
    Swoods, Your pictures have made the thread unreadable. Can you go edit your post and put carrige returns (enters) after your pictures? That will make posts line up to be readable. Thanks - trouts2
    Swoods


    I love all power equipment from lawn mowers to snow blowers. My favorite pieces of equipment are 2 cycle Lawn Boys.

    Location: Elburn, IL
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Points: 65

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #293   Jan 21, 2011 6:16 pm
    OK, I fixed the images I had posted, but I cannot edit the ones the are from a reply from the user, Snowmachine. Sorry, I didn't even know there was a problem, they line up fine on Google Chrome. I went back to Internet Explorer and saw what you meant.
    This message was modified Jan 21, 2011 by Swoods


    Sean Woods
    trouts2




    Location: Marlboro MA
    Joined: Dec 8, 2007
    Points: 1328

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #294   Jan 21, 2011 7:39 pm
    Too bad.  There's a lot of good stuff in this post.

    Catt: What was the material you used and how is it holding up?  Nice job on the tach.

    This message was modified Jan 21, 2011 by trouts2
    royster


    " It is the use of power tools that separates man from animals"

    Location: New Brunswick, Canada
    Joined: Feb 11, 2011
    Points: 284

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #295   Feb 23, 2011 6:23 pm
    pvrp wrote:
    I'm going to retract my suggestion that the 1130 SE be Snowblower of the Year.

    Which leaves the Ariens 9526 DLET...

    Paul


    The Snow Blower of the year,   The Craftsman  52993, built by Husqvarna , no friction drive to worry about, it has hydrostatic drive.

    royster


    " It is the use of power tools that separates man from animals"

    Location: New Brunswick, Canada
    Joined: Feb 11, 2011
    Points: 284

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #296   Feb 23, 2011 7:24 pm
    Santaclause wrote:
    Well I just got done changing the oil and stuff and I cleaned the drive plate with brake clean and disk also took the cable up one notch I will say I think I got a more positive feel when I tested it out hopefully we will get a signifigant snow so I can try it out reverse still feels a little weak but forward seems really strong .....


    I had a  Murray/Noma built Craftsman  12.5 hp Tecumseh, 33 inch  for for  9 years, I had the same problem with the friction disc getting contaminated, but the problem was that the Tecumseh was leaking or blowing out oil onto the friction disc.  I saw no way to help the Tecumseh ,but  I put an extension on the breather that went down to the bottom of the frame, This seemed to help some , but the engine was still putting oil on the disc. I kept cleaning it with a brake cleaner , It would start slipping first  in the lower gears as this puts the clutch wheel  near the center of the friction disc where there is less friction surface . As  I  had to remove the bottom cover so often, I put wing nuts on the fasteners to save time. As long as I kept the friction disc dry , I had no problems..

    This is how I finally solved my problem,and I would recommend this solution to all:

      I  got  a  Craftsman 52993 , built by Husqvarna,   27 inch,  305 Briggs, 14.5 torque, heated grips, power steering, and HYDROSTATIC Drive,  no more friction disc.

    trouts2




    Location: Marlboro MA
    Joined: Dec 8, 2007
    Points: 1328

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #297   Feb 23, 2011 7:42 pm
    Royce,

       Could you go into more detail about the hydro?  You seem to be a sharp guy and know a lot about them versus friction disks.

    royster


    " It is the use of power tools that separates man from animals"

    Location: New Brunswick, Canada
    Joined: Feb 11, 2011
    Points: 284

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #298   Feb 24, 2011 5:42 pm
       No need to make one, although that is a good idea.  Husqvarna has a hydrostatic model and the  Husqvarna built, Craftsman models 52993 and 52070 are also hydrostatic,  No more friction disc problems!! 

    royster


    " It is the use of power tools that separates man from animals"

    Location: New Brunswick, Canada
    Joined: Feb 11, 2011
    Points: 284

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #299   Feb 24, 2011 5:55 pm
    Swoods wrote:
    I just changed the oil for the first time.  I replaced the original oil with Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W30.  The manual says it holds 26-28 ounces.  For those of you that don't know (I had to look it up myself) that is a hair over 8/10th of a quart bottle.  So just use about 3/4 of the bottle and then fine tune it the rest of the way by measuring with the dipstick. 

    I'm thinking about adding a small red trailer light to the back of the machine.  I will probably mount it to the top of the cab facing backwards.  Sometimes at night when I blow at the end of my driveway, I turn around in the street.  With the roar of the engine and trying to focus on the machine, I get concerned about cars coming up behind me. 

    I suppose I could always add reflective tape instead of the light.  If I did add a light, I wonder how I could make it blink?  I would most likely need some sort of a blinking mechanism. 

    Another cool modification would be to add a very small light facing down on the dash.  Sometimes at night it is hard to see what gear I am selecting.  A tractor dash light like this would be perfect: URL for Light.

    I purchased 2 of those  those little blinking red lights that truckers use when they have to to make an emergency stop  on the side of the road They are  LED , use 2 AAA batteries and seem to last forever. I got them at Walmart, I think they were $5 each,   mounted them on the side of the cab.

    royster


    " It is the use of power tools that separates man from animals"

    Location: New Brunswick, Canada
    Joined: Feb 11, 2011
    Points: 284

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #300   Feb 24, 2011 6:25 pm
    trouts2 wrote:
    Royce,

       Could you go into more detail about the hydro?  You seem to be a sharp guy and know a lot about them versus friction disks.



    I have used hydrostatic transmissions on many types of equipment over the years, and have been very satisfied with them.   When  I saw the Craftsman 52993 ,14.5  305 Briggs.  I had to have it.  Built by Husqvarna, who also makes hydrostatic models under their own  Husqvarna name,  I researched the hydrostatic transaxle and found out that they were built by Hydro Gear.in the USA.  , a very large manufaxrurer of hydrostatic transmissions and transaxles.    The ones in the snowblowers are the WB (walk behind)  series, very similar to the ones used      in tractors.   They still have the traction belt setup but it drives the pulley on the the hydrostatic transmission . So to operate, you hold down the left control lever (like you would in any snowblower) this sends  the power to the transaxle.  While holding down the left control lever ,(acting like a dead man control)  the drive speed control lever  is then all you have to use, forward to move ahead , nuetral in the middle and moving the lever back for reverse (just like in the treactors )   Before doing this, you have already set you engine speed to max, as you would do in any snow blower .  You can shift the lever from forward  to reverse at any time.   The further you move the lever forward , the faster you go,  Same as moving the lever back for reverse---   So,  It is variable speed.  You can move forward at a speed that is much slower than the friction disc is capable.  You machine doesn't have to work nearly a hard at any speed or load. There is over a 20 to 1 multiply in torque,  

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