Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Anyone have a digital copy of a Honda Snowblower Service Book onhand that you can share.

They have the owners manual available for download, but it doesn't state much on servicing.
1st timer 2 stage owner here....

I think the service manual is very short. It's one sentence only; "wash it, wax it, then crack open a beer and smile at it."

Yeah. The owner manual doesn't even make a mention of grease in the augers ...

drifter wrote:
Now that you got a new toy, you're just itching for some snow action eh?

That reminds me, I have to go buff my snowblower.  Adjust the skid shoes, and grease the chute worm gear.

chefwong wrote:
What new toy did you get?  Do tell.

aa335 wrote:

After all the help we've provided and chefwong does'nt even have the decency to let us in on his score.....

I don't want to jinx it just yet...
It's not a TCD

It has not been picked up.

GL4 or GL5 for the Augers?

It is a VERY good deal & the bucket is RED

BTW, not sure what camp you're in on *sealants* . I have plenty of exotic caranubas and sealants already.

For the last 2 years, from the same makers of Kroil, I've been using Weatherpruf as a sealant for exterior stuff.
I put a coat on the compressor housing 1X a year, etc, etc.

chefwong wrote:
One word... Zaino........... :)

chefwong wrote: Give us a lil' hint,,,,,, What's the tire pressure???

It's got tire pressure.... So for all you Hundaa Heads in here, I might as well get you thoughts.. I found a 724WA which is Perfect. Perfect in the sense that sizewise, it's good to fit between 2 cars. There are plenty of 1132 Trax available locally. The 724WA is a year old, but the kicker is it's a 4 hr drive to get it. $750 for the unit seemed like a good deal - travel aside. The costs of the Uhaul cab to hook up to my X5 (one way U haul) + gas in my gas monster was the same as me renting a Toyota Sienna. So a Sienna will be hauling it So Sat 3AM, off the trek begins to get my red bucket machine. If you guys don't mind checking, what mm size sockets are on the chute as well as the handlebar. I'm be lugging a socket set, 2 sets of Phillips #2 &3, and a good ole flashlight. 1/2 gas container to test and some straps. When I move, I can get then just the trax model of whatever is the latest. Dear old me. I am debating whether to FLIP the 520AS or not. Since I got it for so cheeep , I should keep it eh ?

I had a 624WA for 10 years - IMHO, it's the best compromise between power, compactness and manueverability that's available in a 2 stage blower. It will tackle any type of snow condition and handles the EOD garbage well - you just have to take a smaller bite than going through the virgin stuff. I'm sure you'll be very pleased with its performance. BTW - you got a good price on that, I just sold my 10 y/o 624WA for $ 750.00 back in August. First guy who came to look at it bought it. 

Most every nut and bolt is either a 10mm, 12mm or 14mm. You may want to bring along a metric crescent wrench just in case : ) . I'd keep the HS520AS just for those small snow amounts or slushy crap that any 2 stage has difficulty blowing. Don't forget the pic's. Good Luck!

I second that. Don't forget the metric crescent wrenches, you'll need two.

Now that you guys mention it, my crecents wrenches dont' have any mm markings on them. Maybe I need to add these to my stash

Hobbys can get real you in trouble real quick. About 8-10 years ago, I was on this buying spree and ordered a boatload of Hazet wrenchs from overseas.
Between the costs of them, shipping and my HINDSIGHT on custom fees, I would have had a tonnage of USA made steel tools...

chefwong wrote:
They usually don't come with markings, the tool operator has to be properly trained and calibrated monthly. 

But I got a wrench with markings I can sell you.

She's home....
Just got to wait till my buddy can swing on by to help me lift it out of the minivan.

That Hydrostatic drive.....makes those damm wheels almost unbearable to move without actually having the transmission ~engaged~.

Unless you guys can share some secret sauce on making these wheels turn easier for me...

chefwong wrote:

There's a lever below the pull rope winding that says "Transmission Release Lever". Slide it to the right and it engages the transmission, slide to the left and it releases the transmission. When you try to move it without the engine running, you need to slide it into the "Release" position and this will allow the tranny to freewheel and it will be much easier to move around.

I think the tires may need some air.
I sucked it up, out my ramps on, and rolled it down. It just needed a extra heavy tug to get things moving.....

Scraper looks clean. I'm not sure whether it is indeed only 6 months bold but nevertheless, she checks out.

Making a checklist.
Unless I am blind, I do not see any zerks on the Auger.
How do I greast this part...

There are no grease zerks.

She's all sealed up....just drying out now.
Per another thread info, I'm just going to pull the end bolts out and send some Redline CV2 grease via a needle nose.

The auger shaft need to be looked after. Remove the metric bolt that attaches to the each end of the auger shaft on the outsides of the bucket. Where that bolt came out shoot in some grease with anti-seeze. Or better yet, slide the auger / impeller/ front gearbox out and pull the shear pins , then pull everything apart and grease it up.  You should be good for a few years after that.  Also be sure to lube up the adjusting bolts and cables under the control panel where the shifter is.  For some reason those adjusting bolt get more than their fair share of rust.  Most of the salt that causes problems for me come from clearing the end of the driveway. Its ussually the last place I spend time clearing a storm and that is a mistake. The salt residue and slush really are a nusance. The blower would be better served by clearing the EOD first and then running clean snow through the system for the rest of the time. That or hose things down, but in the winter I have no outside source of water.  Maybe navel jelly would be the trick?

Underdog wrote:

That's what I do, I blow straight up to the EOD and get it all done then I finish off the rest of the driveway so the salt gets out of the machine. That's what the dealer suggested I do and so far so good.

I took a look last night. Looks like it should be a easy 30 minute fix to add some lube..
Pull the blower shear bolt, remove the side bolts and everything should slide right out....

I guess I'll tackle thin in between sealing all this @#($$# wood I have lying around

Crecent wrench is an adjustable wrench so there wouldn't be any MM nor American STD markings. Since most products are made in Asia it is a good idea to buyaset of metric open end or box wrench. The newest versions at Sears have racheting box wrenches to really speed up the process.

JGtravelor wrote:
It's a little inside joke.  :)  I got a crescent wrench with microns markings. 

Do you know where I buy 5 gallons of prop wash?

Actually ...


There is also a metric version. They're different because of the tooth spacing.
BTW, I have one and it works very well, I much prefer it over a regular Crescent wrench.

But it was a bit of a shock to see an "adjustable" wrench that came in both metric and SAE versions
http://www.irwin.com/tools/pliers-adjustable-wrenches/quick-adjusting-wrenches

Wow there is a metric crescent wrench. How about the prop wash?

aa335 wrote:




You can find anything with google.

Yes, but where can I buy it?

aa335 wrote:
http://secure.hobbyzone.com/search/sai56135.html

Shryp wrote:
Haha funny.  That's a prop washer. 

I'd like to buy 5 gallons.  :)

aa335 wrote:
The description clearly states "Prop Wash".

Doesn't say 5 gallons, but here is a bucket:

http://www.amazon.com/Bucket-Prop-Wash-Memoirs-Author/dp/141077001X

Shryp wrote:
Fair enough.  You just landed a job as a purchasing agent.  :)

http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=274274584546&_fb_noscript=1

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=450498&page=1

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2

Shryp wrote:
Ding ding ding, you hit a jackpot.

But the first pictures I found were funny.

Somebody help me, I lost the key to my hydraulic lock. 

    The local Honda dealer has been around for 40 years, has himself and 3 good mechanics and several others who do the more general stuff.   I asked him about using PB-Blaster in through the end auger support screw.  He said he loads all Hondas with 30 weight oil.

    

  Could not find the Honda thread where greasing the nub ends going out out of the auger gearbox was discussed so posting here. 

The issue was a shear pin could break and the nub turn inside the rake reaming the rake ID larger.   The dealer said they are greased at the factory.   Grease there was not a maitenance item but when doing a service he includes putting grease there.  He said there were no issues of wear from shearing a pin and screwing up the rake.