Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Hi All,

New here (first post) but have been reading on this site for a few years and appreciate all of the knowledgeable info from all of you. Thanks!

I had a Simplicity 555 snow thrower for seven years but it was way underpowered (5 HP), and I am pushing 50 with a bad back, so I decided to buy a new one with more power. I live in NJ and have a big driveway along with a sidewalk that is 150' long, . Also, the bus stop for the kids is on my driveway so it is important to me to make sure it it clean and safe. Well, tonight I bought a new Simplicity Signature Pro model 10524 from a dealer in Princeton. The dealer told me it was last year's model and would sell it to me for last years price for 1650.00, which I paid. But when I got home and looked at the receipt, I noticed the model was a 10524P, not P10524E as in last years brochure. On top of that, the 2008 model is P1524E.

Anyone know what the 10524P year is and did I get a bad deal? I didn't want to buy something brand new if it's a two year old model.

Thanks for your help in advance.

Hi Don, I just bought a new 2008 P1524E for 1550.00 plus tax.  I live in Northern Illinois though so prices around where you live might be higher. I'm not sure about last years model, but the 2008 model has the electric chute rotator and heated hand grips as standard.

DonMac wrote:
10524P is Pro Series 2007 model. For some unfathomable reason many "E" models have decals on the machine itself where the "E" is replaced with a "P" so it appears that 10524P and 10524E are in fact one and the same. One possible reason for the discrepancy is Simplicity using a variant model number for export units. In periods of strong demand these units are sold domestically, they are identical to domestic units.

Talldog,
Yes this one has the hand warmers and electric chute.

Gelid,
Thanks. I feel better about this purchase. Wasn't sure about the various P/Ns. Should be delivered tomorrow.

Anyone actually use one of these? I bought this because I figured 10.5 HP on a 24" width on their top of the line series should give me enough power to get through the EOD while still being maneuverable. I tried to search about the Power Boost feature but there isn't much here on that. Hope it works as advertised.

Thanks again.

Don, best snowblower I've ever used. You're gonna love it!

Don, I just noticed, like Gelig said, on the model# tag it says 1524E, but on the sticker on the top of the snowblower it says 1524P.  Doesn't make a whole lot of sense, but it is a great snowblower.

You made a wise purchase.  I bought a new 9.5 h.p. 28" Simplicity in October.  We've had over thirty inches of snow fall so far this year in three big dumps.  The last storm dumped over twenty inches on us.  The way the wind blows around here, it lifts the snow off of the roof of the house and dumps that onto the driveway as well.  Our driveway is 110 feet long with a 35 x 35 foot turn around area at the top.  It also has has 10% grade so there's some hill climbing involved.  The biggest deposit I had to move was the last dump we got.  It was probably on average 21" of drift pack snow.  It was often over the top of the intake.  Big snow is where the Simp shows it's stuff.  My old 10 h.p. Craftsman would have taken twice as long to get the job done.  The Simplicity is just that much more efficient at tossing large volumes of snow long distances.  I have made a slight modification to the chute on mine.  I lined it with a piece of Krazy Karpet.  That's one of those plastic sheets kids use to slide down hills.  Not sure if that contributes to the attained efficiency and distance but it does save the paint on the inside of the chute from gravel left by the snow plow at the end of the driveway. 

Needless to say, I'm very much impressed with the Simplicity.  I'm certain that with normal maintenance, this machine will last a very long time.        

Borat and all!

Go Google or go EBay: Tecumseh hour meter.

I bought  one for $15.00!!

Shows hours and tenths of hours

Needs no batt's.

Just wrap the input wire around the spark plug wire.

Sure makes it easy to keep track of OPE hour usage!

                                                        Fred

jubol wrote:

As Homer Simpson would say "doughhhh!!!" I bought a unit for my snowblower for $35.00.  However it is a tach as well.   Fifteen bucks is pretty good.  Is it also a tach or just an hour meter?   Thanks for the tip nonetheless. 

Just hour meter!!

I have a portable tach, called a: "TREYSIT "!

No power required, accurate to + or - 25 Rpm's.     IMHO

Cost $15.00, Tecumseh sells them.

Bought mine on EBay.

                                          Fred

                  

jubol wrote:

Hi Fred:

I went to the site for the Treysit  (Tecumseh Vibratach)  and they indicate a measuring capability of up to 50,000 rpm.  Is that correct or are they over by one zero?  I have a Tiny Tach that's multi functional and can measure to 20.000 (I think) could be a little less.  Problem is that I have it wired to an ATV and it's a pain to take off if I want to test another machine.  The tach on the snow thrower is good to 7000 which is a little shy for measuring two strokes.  Will this thing work on a three cylinder diesel?  If it does, I could use one. 

No , They are correct, just checked mine and it goes to 50,000 Rpm!!

It will work on your 3 cylinder or 4, 5, any number!!

                                                                                   Fred

Hi Fred:

This is shaping up to be a good thing maybe.  Several months ago, I needed a tach to measure the rpms of my diesel power plant that I have out a camp.  I ordered an electronic Tiny Tach that used a transducer that mounts onto one of the fuel lines.   Well it seemed to have worked for about two minutes.  Just long enough for me to get a reading of 1800 rpm then it went haywire.   So, I think I have the desired setting of 1800 rpm but not completely sure of it.  Now for my final question (hopefully), can this device be trusted to give me an accurate reading of +/- 50 rpm or less?   The engine I'm trying to test is a 3 cylinder Kubota diesel.   Cast iron block and head if that matters.

Talldog wrote:
When I bought my current snowblower both the sales slip and other paperwork stated it was a Honda HS928 TAS but the machine is actually an HS928 TCD like it says on the small serial# decal. The difference between the TAS and TCD is that the TCD has joystick type electric chute controls, DC electric starter (like a car) and work light, "the works". After ordering the machine from a dealer near my home in Maine I looked at the paperwork and got somewhat anxious over the fact that it appeared as if the dealer had made a mistake or was trying to push a TAS on me after charging me for the more expensive TCD. Called them and got it cleared up, they told me that since the TCD is a Canadian model that's only available in the US on special order, their computer did not have it listed as such but that if I read the small print I would notice that the extra features that come with the the TCD were all listed, and indeed they were. Apparently this saves Honda some extra duty fees.

When the machine arrived I was expecting the decals to proudly display the snowblower's impressive pedigree, with perhaps a maple leaf emblem to boot, so that I could make the Joneses turn green with envy but damn, it just said HS928!

Seriously, I think that's pretty wise. After all, all 9/28 Hondas are HS928's and that way they can change the suffix of specific models every year if they feel like it and still use the same decal.

I just bought the same 10.5 hp simplicity.

I like the machine, but that exposed wiper motor for the shute seems like it might be a trouble spot. It will get hit with plenty of salt from EOD crap. Hopefully it wont be a problem. I may make some sort of plastic shield for it?
$1650 is what I paid, I think that is list. Wish I bought last May.

Tubby wrote:
Tubby, I'm not too worried about the motor itself, but  its wiring might be a weak spot. There is also exposed wiring on the bottom of the starter motor. Guess time will tell. I was thinking of making some kind of boot/shield for it also. Maybe something like a spark plug boot?

At the very least, maybe some sealing with some liquid electrical tape around where the wires enter the connectors. That stuff is great, use on electrical stuff in boat bilges. It will keep salt water from flowing down the wire into the terminal where it can sit and corrode.

Talldog wrote:

Protecting the wiring is a good idea.  Putting something around it that my have the propensity to hold water might add to the corrosion problem.  If you're going to put a boot around it, fill the boot with dielectric grease to deny any opportunity for water and salt to get into it.    I think a dab of silicone might do the trick as well. 

DonMac wrote:
If I remember correctly we discussed this last year and came to the conclusion it was a variable diameter pulley setup. When the engine is under too much load the RPMs start to drop. The Sheaves on the pulley change and the ratio between the engine pulley and the auger pulley goes up so you have more power going to the auger.

Well, It was delivered on Saturday and I must say, probably up there with the best designed and constructed pieces of equipment I ever bought!

Talldog: glad to hear!

Burat: How did you fasten that plastic sleeve? I just waxed the whole thing , in and out, not sure if that matters at all, but...

Jubol: Bought a Tiny Tach w/ hour meter. Its also resettable (not sure why).

Tubby: I thought the same thing looking at it but I would like to think Simplicity wouldn't put something on there that wasn't capable of dealing with the wet/salt etc. Time will tell.

Nibbler: sounds like a great design. Again, if this performs as well as advertised, wow!

Never thought I would say this, but, looking forward to a major snowstorm!

Thanks guys!

DonMac wrote:

My machine had two holes at the forward edge on the bottom of the chute.  I used those two holes and the bolt that is used to control the deflector on the top right side.  Before I tried to install the piece, I cut  approx. 18" across the piece of Wacky Karpet and folded it evenly across a piece of 2x4.  Using clamps and a propane torch, I warmed up the bends on each side of the 2x4 to get the plastic to conform to the shape.  I left it like that overnight and the next morning, it was much easier to work into the chute.  I fit the bottom so that it squeezed between the chute and the circular discharge hole collar.  There's lots of room in there and the plastic should drop in about 1/2 an inch.  Once I had it in there, I forced the plastic into the chute as far as I could get it.  The piece of 2x4 came  in handy for temporarily pressing the plastic into the chute while I used vice grips and clamps to hold the plastic in place.  Use a piece of cloth on the painted side when clamping so you don't damage the paint.  Once you have the piece in place, draw lines down the sides to shape it to match the chute and cut with scissors.  While you have it in there, mark the holes at the bottom and top of the chute.  I used a heated nail to melt through the plastic while I had it in place.  The top hole has a carriage bolt with a square shoulder.  I had a similar bolt of the same size, heated it and used that to melt a square into the plastic for that hole.  A square hole will ensure the bolt goes through the deflector control slot nice and straight.   Note that you will only need the three points to secure the liner if you have it properly fitted.  In addition to the small stainless steel bolts I used at the bottom of the chute, I made some plastic washers out of the same material.  I heated a short piece of 1/2 copper pipe and used it as a cookie cutter to cut out the washer blanks and melted a hole in the middle of them.   I used a piece of one inch copper pipe to make a big washer to put next to the lock nut for the deflector control bolt.  In addition to this modification, I riveted a 1/32" thick piece of stainless plate to the underside of the top of the deflector.  SS is pretty hard stuff and the piece I put in is already showing some scuffs with only 7 hours on the machine.  This might sound like a lot of work but it wasn't that bad.  Just make sure to fit the liner in good and tight to the bottom collar and after putting in the fasteners, it should stay there.   I used black plastic as a liner and the fit went so well, it looks factory. 

Just got delivered today.

It has MUCH more power than my 8hp Ariens ever did!
Not sure you would ever see me waxing my snow thrower, but I have friend that does his.
It is a great machine. We get some where north of 150"/year, so I will get plenty of time to figure out its weak spots.

Borat, Absolutely ingenious! You obviously are a great innovator! Thanks for that detailed reply.

Tubby, Where do you live to get 150" of snow a year?

North of Syracuse, right on the edge of the snowbelt.

Last year the weather channel showed up when just north west of us by 8 miles got 10' in one week! That mess missed us, we only got 5' that week.

DonMac wrote:

Don - I'd be interested in possibly buying your old Simplicity if you still have it!................ DI

DonMac wrote:

Thanks bud.  " Ingenious" is a little over the top.  But hey, I'll take it.  The reason I went with the liner was to minimize the effect of e.o.d. snow mixed with copious amounts of salt and gravel blasting the paint from the inside of the chute and the top of the deflector.  I've noticed that older machines with the paint worn off the steel inside of chutes have a problem with wet snow sticking to them.  This plastic is made for winter conditions, is very slick and should last for a few seasons I hope.  This is the first time I've done this.  The next one should be much easier to make because if the first one wears out, I can flatten it and use it as a template to make another one.  We'll just have to see how long it lasts. 

Hell, Borat u could mass produce and sell a kit ala Clarence.

Clarence lives on the opposite end of Lake Superior from me.  If the lake freezes right over (it seldom does any more), he and I could snow blow a path half way across and meet in the middle.    Maybe have a coffee and see if he wants to market my idea. 

I just bought the same Simplicity (1524) in November. Prior to the record setting warm spell and January tornadoes we've had here in southeastern Wisconsin, I even had several chances to test it out. It's been a great machine. It shipped with a minor defect in the free-hand control that was promptly fixed by my excellent local dealer. My question: Does anyone know why you're supposed to stop the drive on Simplicity's PRO machines before changing speeds? It hasn't been an issue and I don't expect it to be... just curious.<BR>

mfduffy wrote:

The drive disk is in contact with the friction wheel when the unit is moving forward. If you shift gears in this configuration you will probably cause undue wear.I also believe the unit would lurch forward if upshifted or you would bump into it if downshifted when moving forward.

Marc

Wow, did not know this. I thought it was real slick how I could change gears so fast on the fly.
I guess I ought to read the manual now.

Thanks for the reply on my speed selector question.  I've got new one -- Now that winter has really hit and we're consistently in sub-freezing and sub-zero temps, I have problem with the EZ Turn freezing up on me.  Sometimes it sticks open and I'm left with only 1-wheel traction.  Twice, it's been so bad I can't even pull the trigger.  The dealer suggested I remove the bottom panel and spray down the linkage with white lithium grease.  I did that and it was fine... for a day.  After I used it again last night, I've got the same issue today.  It almost seems like water has gotten into the cable and is freezing the cable itself.  Any ideas?  Anyone had this problem and somehow eliminated it?  Thanks.

If you think it's the cable, you should try to get some WD-40 into it.  It will help displace water and will lube the cable.  You should disconnect the cable at the top, hold it vertical and put the WD-40 into it.  It's advisable to put some sort of device at the top to funnel the lube into the cable.  Some fill a balloon with an oz. or so of lube, pull it over the end of the cable, tie it off good and tight then invert it.  Leave the cable in the vertical position until you see that the contents have emptied into it.  I suspect however, that the problem is down at the drive coupling.  It's a rather simple device that appears to create resistance during cold weather primarily due to the type of lubrication involved.  If the area of the shaft that the coupler operates on is covered in a grease that is not suitable for cold weather, the parts will be very sluggish to respond to input from the cable.  I would suggest that the shaft be lubricated with synthetic motor oil and only the engagement teeth be lubed with grease.   

Thanks for the tips Borat. I was able to open the cable midway via the adjustment nut. I sprayed WD-40 in there, in the bottom, and in the top. Per your suggestion that it wasn't really the cable -- that was my initial thought upon opening the bottom and discovering how the whole thing worked. I cleaned off the white lithium that I had previously applied and put synthetic 5w-30 on the shaft. I found some SuperLube grease at a local ACE Hardware (claims to maintain flow to -40F) and put it on the teeth. We're expecting 1-3 inches tomorrow, maybe I'll get to try it out! Of course, it has warmed up almost 20 degrees in the past 12 hours. I'll keep you posted. Incidentally, I'm seeing mixed info on white lithium's performance in cold temps. Anyone have thoughts on that?

If you want to see how white lithium grease performs in cold temps, put some between two small pieces of steel plate and leave outside on a cold day.  After an hour or so, try to move the pieces against each other in a sliding motion to see how freely they move.  That should give you an idea. 

Update: I've used the machine twice in blowing snow and sub-zero conditions and I've had with no issues afterwards.  Last night I went out again to clear a couple of drifts.  This morning, the temperature is hovering around 0F (obviously, it's a little warmer in my garage).  I checked that trigger on my way out of the house today and it moved freely and easily.  I suppose I'm tempting fate by posting my success here!  Nevertheless, thanks borat for your suggestions.  I'm still not 100% sure of where exactly the issue was, but it was well worth getting the white lithium out of there and I can tell that made a huge difference in and of itself.  The WD-40 in the cable is a quick and easy thing to do that I will add to annual maintenance.

I also tried your experiment.  Ha!!  I'm tempted to throw that can of white lithium away!  At least, I'll never pull it out during winter.  Thanks again.

Nice to hear things are working out for you.  I suspect it was the grease.  Probably too much in the wrong place.  At the end of the season, put the synthetic engine oil on the shaft and little grease just at the engagement points of the teeth.  When you pull it out for winter,   Put a bit more oil on the shaft.  Sometimes oil can gum up over the summer.  WD40 in the cable is always a good thing. 

You can shift on the fly, but for liability reasons it is not recomended.  I have a steep driveway, and when going up if I change to a higher gear it may lift up (front).  Speed is controlled by the friction disk, inner is slower go out it gets faster -- physics 101.  There really is no excessive wear shifting on the fly.  In fact, if you stop then you will incur more wear starting the snow thrower from rest.  But as mentioned earlier, it could get dangerous if you upshift while going uphill.

I love the blower, bought the 10524 in October.  The dealer put it together good and delivered it and demonstated it.  However, the salesperson at the store is only good for looking up parts.  I sent a technical question to Simplicity.  They responded quick enough but it took some back and forth for them to admit a technical feature they used for just one year and didn't bother to mention it in the documentation; I am not impressed with Simplicity's customer service.  Other than that love it!

Talldog wrote:
Nope, sure as poo sticks to a blanket, that stupid motor gave it up. The gear box got contaminated. :( $150 + cold fingers.

Tubby wrote:
Sorry to hear of your troubles.  I remember when I first joined this forum, you had some other problems with this snowblower.

Is that $150 the price for a replacement motor, or the whole motor/gearbox assembly.   Is your snowblower about 7 years old?  If so, I am surprised that the electric motor actually lasted that long.  If I did have a snowblower with electric rotation, I would keep a spare on hand just in case it gives up.

Found one on ebay for $100.
Yes, I did have a problem with the drive plate backing off the spindle, which got fixed under warranty.
There was what I felt a safety issue wuth that, in that as it comes off the spindle, it forces itself onto its matching gear, effectively putting the blower in gear with no way to stop it short of shutting the engine off.
Since then it has been a good machine.
Ordering up the new chute motor now.
I just find it ironic that the one that gave me hesitation when I was shopping blowers was predictably an issue.