Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Neighbor came over today with a Little Wonder Deluxe edger he found for $20. He figured we could tinker with it and see what happens (like we know what we are doing.. yeah right!). Apparently the unit is in the ballpark of 12 or so years old. Supposedly ran last season but has been kept outside exposed to the elements. Looks like it too! Anyway, we figure the external rusted stuff can be sanded and painted or lubed. AMost parts moved. The belt driving the blade is obviously worn but not dry as there are no cracks. Gas tank is metal and is about half full. Who knows if it is stabilized or not? There is rust on the inside steel parts of the gas cap.

We were going to start it up and I did the first thing I do before starting a four stroke up..... check the oil. This is a 3 hp Briggs by the way, series 80202. And this is why I came to this forum even before pulling the cord. The oil has the color of coffee mixed with milk. Kinda like a light brown. What does this mean as I have never seen it before?

Now before we go the route of fresh gas and new plugs and fresh oil, we want to know what the significance of that oil color is. We will base our next move and expenses on your expertise and recommendations.

We would both like to get this thing going as I have a 175 foot front and 150 foot rear sidewalk to do. He has about 75 and 100 foot front and rear sidewalk as well. Figuring the cost and hopefully minimal total investment, it would last us a few good years and beers between us.

Thoughts anyone?

I was about to post something on this very subject.

My 2 year-old Honda Harmony mower showed milky (looks like coffee with cream) oil after I ran it for a few minutes to get the cobwebs out for the start of the season.  It is possible that some moisture got into the oil fill as the machine was left out during some rain and the cover/dipstick was off.  (Don't ask!!!)

I have changed the oil a couple of times after running the engine for 5 mintues or so, trying to get the fresh oil to stay clear.  That doesn't seem to be helping.  What should I do and what are the consequences of this?  Will the engine seize on me?  Will it overheat?  Am I doing permanent damage?

Thanks for any help on this.

Brings new meaning to the term 'water cooled'. He he he.

So far we have done 3 oil changes on this machine and it still has water but not as bad. I guess as you guys said....  cheap oil and patience. So we'll keep doing it until it's clear.

You might try running a good Engine Flush. Various companies make the product.

Hey guys , Thought I would run this one by ya. Anyone ever heard of running diesel  fuel in the case for a few mintues? Then putting new oil in it?  HE told me he does this everytime he changes the oil in his car.  Seems to still run good lol.   Later Mike

Mike,

I use synthetic. The inside of the engine usually stays really clean.

I would think if the engine did not over-heat or run overly hot, the oil was changed with the correct grade at recommended intervals, and the other maintainence, like breathers and filters were changed with good quality parts at recommended intervals, it would be real clean. Even with dino oil.

I would not run an engine with diesel as a lubricant, even for a short time. Because I can't think of a reason to.

I also do not like engine crankcase flush products (with execeptions of course). I feel they may release a lot of crud at one time and clog something up. For this reason I am careful when switching to synthetic also.

Do you have something with a sludge problem?

Hey Rob, No I was just reading where they said it takes sometimes like 3 oil changes to get all the water out of the oil. I did'nt know if maybe what that man told me about the diesel might help flush out the water and oil. It doesn't seem to good to me either but I just thought maybe one of you guys have heard about it or know someone who does it.  later Mike

Mike,
It might work great. But just not something I would do.

To answer your question, I've never heard of it.

"No I was just reading where they said it takes sometimes like 3 oil changes to get all the water out of the oil"

That's the only reason I mentioned the engine flush products. I haven't run them.

Drain out some oil & put 4 ounces (1/2 cup) of automotive type, automatic transmission fluid (ATF) in the crankcase. EIther DEXTRON or "Type F" is fine. Run for about 5 minutes. Drain crankcase completely. Repeat process with appropriate oil capacity MINUS 4 ounces, add 4 ounces of ATF. Run 5 minutes. Drain completely & fill with just oil this time. I have done this on several small engined OPE with good & UNHARMFUL results. ATF is very high detergent & does offer lubricating properties, so its safe to use.

Marty