Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Trying to help someone out.  They have an Ariens with an auger that's rusted solid to the shaft.  Tried some PB and WD on the ends of the shaft and persuasive rapping with a heavy hammer.  Tried to get to the end of the shaft by removing the shaft end bearing (3 bolts with nuts, and one large bolt and some washers) but that only led to a pressed pin we couldn't readily budge.  Right now the machine is on it's side, and we're patiently waiting and reapplying PB hoping it'll work down the shaft. 

I see some have used a torch to free the parts, but we have only a propane model and I don't know how effective that will be. 

Is there anything else we can do?

Unless the PB works its way in, you'll have to pull the auger from the housing. Heat would help but I agree that 1 propane torch may not do it. Ever wanted to buy a MAPP torch? This would be a good excuse. Both torches at once might do it, especially with repeated rapping and spraying. Flip the auger/shaft so you're applying penetrating oil at both ends letting gravity help it run towards the center. Sometimes patience is a big help to, spray and bang it once or twice a day for a few days. Maybe this will give you an idea: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ukLJWUZlyCc

While using the PB blaster you also have the shear pin hole and remove the 2 grease fittings and spray there too.

Thanks for the suggestions.  It's still soaking.

As I understand the service manual, we need to separate the two sections as if changing a belt.  Then there are some bolts (what else?) to remove from the belt pulley area, and we also need to remove the auger shaft bolts from the side that's working.  Then the auger assembly, with the gear case and impeller will pull out.  Is that about right?

Does the single shaft that's seized just slip out of the gear case? 

We have plenty of time to let it bask, and as a last resort will eventually try placing it in a vice in such a way that the shaft can be driven down.  If that fails, we'll take it to the high school auto shop where they should happily be able to free it with their industrial torches and tools.

Is there anything else we should know of before attempting this?

Placing it in a vice and driving it out sounds like it will work the same as my jackstand idea.  Not sure what model you have so I can only offer experience on later 1970 924xxx series.  On mine you remove the belt cover, remove / unhook the chute crank rod, roll the belt off the pulley, remove the 2 top angled top bolts and then the handle bars will fold down from the front.  Make sure to catch the handlebar section.  Pull the bottom hooks off the bar and lean the handlebars against something.  Now remove the 9" pulley from the back of the auger section.  It should have 2 set screws.  Some are 2 pieces with the auger bolted to a center hub and some are one piece.  You will probably need a pickle fork or some type of prybar to get the pulley off.  Once the pulley is out of the way remove the 3/4" bolt and 3 small 7/16" bolts on each side and pop out the bearing brackets.  Now everything should slide right out of the front housing.  The impeller shaft and auger shafts will not separate unless you take the gear box apart.  It will be one large "T" assembly.  There is also 3 7/16" nuts on the flange on the back behind the pulley.  These don't need to be removed, but if you are going this far you might as well replace that bearing too.  Ariens bearings are kind of expensive, but you can find alternatives from bearing supply places that will work just as well for about 1/5th the cost.

Here are some pictures of mine that might help a little:
https://picasaweb.google.com/117604838925049407526/20110314

Gee, some of those pictures are enough to make me want to stop helping out the neighbor!

Curious, what did you use to clean the oil from the floor?

Had no idea that the marriage between the parts could be so strong.  I'm going to suggest he bring to to the nearby high school shop and let them handle it. 

Although, since it's been basking in PB for awhile, will give it a few whacks before doing that to see what happens.

Well those pictures are from when I took my gearbox apart because the gears were stripped out.  Removing the augers doesn't require all that.  I was just trying to show how it comes apart.  I had a little bit of cat litter and some rags, but I think there is still a big oil stain.

Ah, the joys....

So the auger shaft just comes out of the gear case, no mess and no fuss?   Might revisit it, then.

No.  The auger shaft does not come out of the gearbox.  You remove the front housing from the blower.  Then you remove the T shaped gear box from the housing.  Then you remove the auger corkscews from the T shape.

If you wish to remove the auger shaft you have to take the gearbox apart and that is when you get to the oil.  If you are not stupid enough to leave a 5 quart jug full of oil open and right next you your work area you probably won't make a big mess :)

Oh, um, I always leave 5 quarts of used oil next to me in an open container when I'm working on something.  It fills the need for instant gratification for something, but I don't know what, yet.  But it will come in handy someday.

I'm not clear.... if we separate the tractor from the bucket,  and remove the belt pulley and some other things around it, and then the bolts (bushings?) on the outer edge of the bucket, the "T" shaped impeller and auger assembly will come out. 

What do we need to do to remove the seized auger and shaft assembly from the "T" so it can be put in a vise?

Are both sides seized or just one?  On mine only 1 side was seized so I used the jack stand method I mentioned earlier.  If yours is seized on both sides you would need to get some pipe or something to fit between the 2 and support it that way.

To remove them there is a roll pin on the outside edge.  Knock that roll pin out and then remove the one shear bolt that goes through the center of each auger.  With these 2 things removed it should slide right off.

One thing to try first is get 2 big pipe wrenches and remove the shear bolts and attempt to spin the augers in opposite directions.  If one side breaks free put that shear bolt back.  Don' try to hold it with the impeller because that can damage the gears.