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Clay


Location: Wis
Joined: Dec 3, 2008
Points: 111

John Deere 1130 SE
Original Message   Jan 7, 2009 1:07 pm
I did a search and found a few references to this machine but no answers.  Any one have one of these?  15.5 snow max engine, heated hand grips, 30" wide.  I can't find a listing for auger diameter or impeller diameter.  I called John Deere and the guy that was suppose to be the snow thrower expert didn't know either. 

What is the Easy Steer drive system?  The literature says: 

  • Easy Steer® drive system giving continuous power to both wheels and auto speed adjustment
  • Is it similar to the Ariens auto differential? 

    I've heard that the units are built by B&S which translates to Simplicity.  They do have cast iron gear cases like the Simplicity.  The chute control is different than the simplicity and so is the turning method so they are not exactly the same.  I'm trying to compare the Simplicity L1530E to the JD 1130SE.  Any help would be appreciated.

    Rick

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    ccginmn


    Location: Saint Michael, MN
    Joined: Jan 20, 2009
    Points: 5

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #59   Jan 20, 2009 5:29 pm
    Thanks Clay!!  I just purchased this model last week.  About one month ago I purchased the Troy Built 30" model.  I liked everything about it but the chute control.  The joystick just wouldn't work at 90 degree angles.  Lowes took it back without an arguement.  They even knocked $100 off of the John Deere 1130SE.  I haven't gotten a chance to try the John Deere out yet but am tempted to load it up and bring it to a local lake to see if I have similar issues.  This thread is making me nervous.  I'll report back what I find out.
    embury


    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Points: 8

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #60   Jan 20, 2009 10:00 pm
    B&S called me back today.     It's a rare thing today to actually speak to a human being in this country about service issues.   I gave them all the details and showed them the link to this site.   I have decided not to return my unit yet.   I'm going to see what they are going to do to correct this design flaw.   They did inform me that they are aware of this problem.  They will be contacting me with more information shortly.  So,   For now I cleaned the friction plate with carb cleaner,  sealed the frame holes and the bottom of the belt cover backer plate with a rubberized sealer.  I also put a piece of weather stripping along the front of the plastic belt cover.   This should take care of the problem until they have a factory kit to fix this.   Once the sealer dries I will test it and post my results here.  
    embury


    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Points: 8

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #61   Jan 20, 2009 11:00 pm
    FYI:

     Here are the part numbers for the parts that are missing from the John Deere 1130 SE


    1. Shaft Seal  1733898   http://www.lawn-parts.com/detail.asp?id=1733898   $1.95

    2. Seal Plate 1733868A  http://www.lawn-parts.com/detail.asp?id=1733868A  $5.95

    3. Seal Strip  1733897   http://www.lawn-parts.com/detail.asp?id=1733897  $1.95


    I found these in the parts manual for a Snapper model 1530SE.   It is very similar to the JD 1130SE except for the Chute control.
    Clay


    Location: Wis
    Joined: Dec 3, 2008
    Points: 111

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #62   Jan 21, 2009 11:05 am
    Just finished up a phone call with a very pleasant and customer oriented gentleman in North Carolina who works in the marketing department at John Deere.  Talked to him about some of the mechanical issues with the snow thrower and then spoke about loosing sales over these issues with some people returning units.  If those units were returned and sales were lost because a $3.50 part was used instead of a $3.75 part being used, who did that benefit?  The numbers that I choose are just relative numbers and not exact but if one plastic cover fixes the issues, they should be using that cover on all machines not just the ones where people have the patience to take the unit into the service department.  Some people just get their money back and buy a competitive unit. 

    I did tell him that many have noticed how Ariens machines are set up at Home Depot and many customers have not been happy with how their units were delivered.  I thought that John Deere was doing the right thing in that Big Box stores are a reality, but having a true John Deere service tech set the unit up was a good thing.  He was responsive to my needs as an end user and said that he would investigate further. 

    I've been very pleased with the response that I have recieved from all of the John Deere reps.

    Rick

    This message was modified Jan 21, 2009 by Clay
    hirschallan


    If it aint broke don't fix it !!


    Location: Northern Hills of NY
    Joined: Aug 25, 2005
    Points: 327

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #63   Jan 21, 2009 12:17 pm
    I can only say I frequent Lowes and have seen the JD dealer truck parked there several times. At least now I know why. Last week I have been there and they just had five or six new JD 1130SE models assembeled parked in a row one behind another. I figured I must compare these against each other and now is my chance. So I picked on the chute control only because what else can you compare on a non runing machine. Results were as follows:
    On all them the deflector portion worked both ways without hanging up. In the rotation part of the comparison they were all over the place. Only one worked flawlessly whatever you did with it. Another one did not work at all because the gear that comes in contact with the teeth on the chute was so far out in reality why and how could it work. The rest of them were all getting stuck and getting tough to move somewhere in the rotation due to IMPROPER adjustments made to them. So now we know its not a big deal to get home and spend some time and get it right but, if they brag that JD is behind the machines in lowes then I would expect much more when your not going to get it.
    In 2005 I bought my Ariens in the big box store of "HD" and only in an unopened box due to the following. I was in the market for a blower and stopped by my local HD one evening about 9 pm only to have witnessed two part timers in they're late teens racing against each other assembling a couple of skids of boxed blowers. I observed lots of forcing,bending and to say the least they were using power tools which gives very little feedback of whats going on when you have'nt a clue. I watched for a while and nobody came to check on them so what are the chances of those machines being trouble free.

    Allan
    This message was modified Jan 21, 2009 by hirschallan


    Clay


    Location: Wis
    Joined: Dec 3, 2008
    Points: 111

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #64   Jan 21, 2009 5:06 pm
    hirschallan wrote:
    So I picked on the chute control only because what else can you compare on a non runing machine. Results were as follows:
    On all them the deflector portion worked both ways without hanging up. In the rotation part of the comparison they were all over the place. Only one worked flawlessly whatever you did with it. Another one did not work at all because the gear that comes in contact with the teeth on the chute was so far out in reality why and how could it work. The rest of them were all getting stuck and getting tough to move somewhere in the rotation due to IMPROPER adjustments made to them. So now we know its not a big deal to get home and spend some time and get it right but, if they brag that JD is behind the machines in lowes then I would expect much more when your not going to get it.

    Allan


    Allen, I initially had a concern about the chute control as well.  As you noted some in the stores were smoother than others.  Remember that it is a worm gear that meshes with a PAINTED GEAR.  When I used mine a couple of times it smoothed out very nicely indeed.  The other thing about the chute control that concerned me was that it wasn't a super fast rotation between one side and the other.  That is no issue for me at this time and I really like that there are no cables on this connection.  The chute rotation is a solid shafter with a knuckle linking the two portions and not a hi tech cable or other wiz bang thing that keeps freezing up on people.  I really like low tech on this because I think it will be durable.  I wish that I could post pictures on this site and I have some up of this connection.  It might not be for everyone and I am not saying that none of them were put together incorrectly of the ones that you looked at, just that my particular unit smoothed out very nicely with a little use between the worm gear and the painted gear.
    hirschallan


    If it aint broke don't fix it !!


    Location: Northern Hills of NY
    Joined: Aug 25, 2005
    Points: 327

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #65   Jan 21, 2009 6:19 pm
    <BR> Clay wrote:
    Allen, I initially had a concern about the chute control as well.  As you noted some in the stores were smoother than others.  Remember that it is a worm gear that meshes with a PAINTED GEAR.  When I used mine a couple of times it smoothed out very nicely indeed.  The other thing about the chute control that concerned me was that it wasn't a super fast rotation between one side and the other.  That is no issue for me at this time and I really like that there are no cables on this connection.  The chute rotation is a solid shafter with a knuckle linking the two portions and not a hi tech cable or other wiz bang thing that keeps freezing up on people.  I really like low tech on this because I think it will be durable.  I wish that I could post pictures on this site and I have some up of this connection.  It might not be for everyone and I am not saying that none of them were put together incorrectly of the ones that you looked at, just that my particular unit smoothed out very nicely with a little use between the worm gear and the painted gear.<BR>
    Clay,
    Its not the paint that was the problem, as you have mentioned there were not one but two knuckle joints which means that what I have on my Ariens in one long rod was on those machines 3 individual rods. That being the fact you have more to fiddle with to get it right and none of them (non working) had it right. Besides, the teeth on the chute are very small which makes the gear lineup much more critical. Take a look at your chute I think only two teeth are in contact so not much room for error.

    Allan
    This message was modified Jan 21, 2009 by hirschallan


    Clay


    Location: Wis
    Joined: Dec 3, 2008
    Points: 111

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #66   Jan 21, 2009 9:22 pm
    Fair enough Allen, I didn't see the machines that you were looking at I just know that my machine was stiff to rotate and not very smooth the first time that I used it and now it is as smooth as butter. 

    I did pick up my machine today from JD at the promised time (day and a half total in the shop) and I am a happy camper.  When Matt from B&S Tech services called the local JD dealer for me to explain the possible solutions to my issues he had the local techs not only remove the oil from the hex shaft, friction disk and friction plate areas and replace that oil with a very think coat of grease that would stay in place better than the oil but he had them actually rough up the pressure plate area with 120 grit sandpaper to that the friction dsik has a better surface to make contact with.  They thought that the plate might be too smooth. 

    When I picked up the unit I didn't load it up right away but rather went to the first area of the parking lot that had not been plowed.  There was 18 to 24" of snow that was HARD in this area.  I went right at it and while the pile of snow did stop of the forward motion the wheels did not stop spining.  With the full weight of the machine on the wheel and the forward progess stopped the wheels still turned.   I did find some loose snow and she plowed through it very nicely with no hesitation.  The forward motion was positive indeed.  Now, this unit just came out of a heated shop and not my frozen garage.  I ran it around the parking lot for a few short minutes.  What will make me feel better is using the unit at my house in a good 8 to 12" snow fall in which I plan on doing all of the neighbors drives and walks to put it through a good test.  After I do a couple of these and it behaves, I will feel better. 

    I know I sound like a broken record, but good response time, good customer service and the problem SEEMS to be fixed.  Life is good and I feel like buying a John Deere hat.

    Rick

    hirschallan


    If it aint broke don't fix it !!


    Location: Northern Hills of NY
    Joined: Aug 25, 2005
    Points: 327

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #67   Jan 21, 2009 9:30 pm
    Clay wrote:
    Fair enough Allen, I didn't see the machines that you were looking at I just know that my machine was stiff to rotate and not very smooth the first time that I used it and now it is as smooth as butter.  </p><p>I did pick up my machine today from JD at the promised time (day and a half total in the shop) and I am a happy camper.  When Matt from B&amp;S Tech services called the local JD dealer for me to explain the possible solutions to my issues he had the local techs not only remove the oil from the hex shaft, friction disk and friction plate areas and replace that oil with a very think coat of grease that would stay in place better than the oil but he had them actually rough up the pressure plate area with 120 grit sandpaper to that the friction dsik has a better surface to make contact with.  They thought that the plate might be too smooth.  </p><p>When I picked up the unit I didn't load it up right away but rather went to the first area of the parking lot that had not been plowed.  There was 18 to 24&quot; of snow that was HARD in this area.  I went right at it and while the pile of snow did stop of the forward motion the wheels did not stop spining.  With the full weight of the machine on the wheel and the forward progess stopped the wheels still turned.   I did find some loose snow and she plowed through it very nicely with no hesitation.  The forward motion was positive indeed.  Now, this unit just came out of a heated shop and not my frozen garage.  I ran it around the parking lot for a few short minutes.  What will make me feel better is using the unit at my house in a good 8 to 12&quot; snow fall in which I plan on doing all of the neighbors drives and walks to put it through a good test.  After I do a couple of these and it behaves, I will feel better.  </p><p>I know I sound like a broken record, but good response time, good customer service and the problem SEEMS to be fixed.  Life is good and I feel like buying a John Deere hat.</p><p>Rick
    Rick
    While your at it get the gloves too.

    pvrp


    Joined: Nov 14, 2008
    Points: 151

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #68   Jan 21, 2009 10:33 pm
    Clay wrote:
    Fair enough Allen, I didn't see the machines that you were looking at I just know that my machine was stiff to rotate and not
    very smooth the first time that I used it and now it is as smooth as butter. 

    If I were you I would check that the bottom of the chute, underneath, is packed with grease.   It wouldn't be so bad
    if you had a heated garage but you say it's freezing in yours.  What can happen is that if you blow some wet snow
    it can build up around the base of the chute and then freeze solid when it gets really cold.  Then the chute will no
    longer turn.  I had this happen to me last year and I had to use a hair dryer everytime to thaw out the base of the
    chute before I could start using the machine.


    I did pick up my machine today from JD at the promised time (day and a half total in the shop) and I am a happy camper.  When
    Matt from B&S Tech services called the local JD dealer for me to explain the possible solutions to my issues he had the local
    techs not only remove the oil from the hex shaft, friction disk and friction plate areas and replace that oil with a very think coat
    of grease that would stay in place better than the oil but he had them actually rough up the pressure plate area with 120 grit
    sandpaper to that the friction dsik has a better surface to make contact with.  They thought that the plate might be too smooth. 


    To me this is a bit like tires on a race car.  In wet conditions they need grooves to let the water squeeze out so the
    rubber makes contact.  In your case you're putting the grooves in the plate which has the same effect.  But there's
    less traction to be had with grooves (or dimples or whatever) than there is with a completely smooth surface. 
    Racecars use treadless slicks for dry conditions as this offers the most traction.  My older Ariens has a completely
    smooth aluminum plate, kept dry by the design, and it has great traction.

    A rough surface on the plate will also cause the friction disk to wear faster, especially in the low gears which includes
    reverse. As far as oil goes, a rough surface will do nothing if you don't let oil get on the disk in the first place.

    Rough surfaces and pulley covers are band-aids needed because they moved the drive plate outside the box.

    Paul
    This message was modified Jan 21, 2009 by pvrp
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