Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I have a MTD 10hp snowblower that is two years old.  While snowblowing I struck a small piece of wood and it bent one auger and the impeller.  Now I need to replace them.  There are two spring pins that hold the shaft into the impeller, can any one tell me how to remove them?

Wayne

Well I took Jim's advice and went from the back side of the snowthrower.  Appears the same engineer that designed Jim's snowblower also designed the Craftsman.  After removing the drive belt from the rear pulley, I removed the center bolt holding the pulley on the end of the shaft.  I then loosened the rear bearing holder and was able to move the entire assembly forward (after removing bolts on the front auger bearing cups).  Much easier than trying to remove the spring pins. 

Jim thanks for the advice it was right on.

Rocky

MTD auger case rebuild questions. In a last post a couple of things were not so clear to me. If I followed him right he:
1 opened up the bottom
2.removed the belt
3 unscrewed unscrewed the pully bolt
4.removed the cup bearing for the back end of the auger drive shaft
5.could pull out the auger after undoing it's two cup bearings.

My confusions are:
1.Aren't there three belts to remove?
2.You might be able to get a wrench in by the pully bolt but you'd have to life up the friction drive disk to get the bold our or later get at the bolts for the auger bearing cup.
3.Because of 2 I think you'd have to move the friction disk out of the way.
4.Because of 3 you'd have to remove the rubber tipped friction disk and because of that it's axle.

I wrote that and just went out to the machine and
1. removed the rubber friction disk axle and rubber friction disk.
2. Then removed the friction disk spring so could lift up the plate it rides on.
3. Removed the pully bolts, removed the pully bolts and removed the two pullys and it's three prong drive plate.
4. That exposed the far end of the auger drive shaft.

The new confusion is how to remove (then later replace) the three bolts that hold the bearing cup. The bolts are turning on bolts on the other side of the case. That is the bolts just in back of the impeller. I can probably wedge a wrench in there and after a while get the three bolts out but what happens later when I go to replace them?

To get them back in with the impeller in the way seems just about impossible. Is that what has to be done somehow???

Another question is and is the reason I'm doing the job it the impeller worm is turning ok but not driving the augers. There's a key in there that might be broken and I'm hoping it's just the key that's broken. If the auger worm is stripped I'm hosed I think.
If the key is ok and the gear it turns is stripped can I buy just that gear? The cheapest I've been able to find for the complete assembly is $160 plus shipping. I maybe got lucky and bought a junker on the net today which I have not seen but the guy says the auger is ok in that unit so I may be able to use that one.
The junker would need to be fixed and possibly need that gear.

The big question is how do I get that now loose auger assembly detached from the rear support cup bearing?