Below is a link to an exploded view of your machine. You did not give the serial number so this drawing is for serial numbers starting with 10….. You may have 11 or something else but this should match.
Here is what some of the parts are so you’ll have an idea of how things work and what to adjust.
The transmission is driven by the drive belt pulley. Has the drive plate mounted on top. The housing is attached to a shaft by two 1 inch loops molded into the transmission housing (see transmission in the link above). The housing is clamped to that shaft by two screws that go through the housing loops and into the shaft. When ever that shaft pivots, the housing pivots. That is how the drive plate gets moved up and down, engaged or away from the friction disk.
The clutch arm is figure (9) in the friction disk drawing. The shaft (5) it is pinned to (by 29) is the shaft the transmission pivots on (actually it pivots with). When the clutch arm moves it pushes the drive plate away from the friction disk. That allows you to shift speeds and get forward and reverse. If the friction disk was on the drive plate there would be too much friction to move the friction disk with the shift lever at the dash. Moving the drive plate away from the friction disk allows the friction disk to move on its shaft so you can shift to other speeds.
Clutch Arm spring:
This spring (8) attaches on one end to (22) and the other end to a hole in a bolt mounted into the tractor housing base. That bolt is (12) in the engine bed drawing. It screws into the bed and has locking nuts to adjust its travel. That travel controls the position of and tension on the clutch arm. The job of the clutch arm spring is to always pull on the arm and keep the drive plate on the friction disk. The only time it slackens is when in neutral or for a short time going between shifts (esplained below).
Shift lever at the dash:
One cable on the shift lever is connected to the clutch arm. When you shift gears you come out of a slot. When you move out of a slot that pulls the cable underneath which is connected to the clutch arm. The clutch arm gets pulled away from the spring and causes the shaft it is pinned with to pivot. The shaft turn pulls the drive plate away from the friction disk. That allows you to shift as the frition disk is then not touching the drive plate. When you then put the shift lever into another slot the cable loosens and the spring can then pull back the clutch arm causing the drive plate to go back to touching the friction disk. You can the tension the drive pulley and the machine will move.
Your are not moving in 1 and 2.
1.It could be a problem internal to the transmission.
2.It could be an adjustment.
3.It’s possible that you have a worn friction disk and just catch in reverse and third. The disk should measure 5.89 inches and the service limit 5.83. Very unlikely it’s this.
For 1 and 2. Flip the machine onto its bucket and take off the bottom cover to see what’s going on in there. Move the shift to neutral, 1, 2 then 3 and each time move the drive plate by hand while holding the friction disk. In neutral the clutch arm should be pulled enough by the cable to back off the drive plate away from the friction disk. In 1, 2 or 3 the drive plate should be firmly pressing against the friction disk. It should be hard to turn the friction disk.
Moving the shift lever to different gears which will cause you to travel through neutral (not neutral position on the dash just neutral as in the drive plate backs off the friction disk) and watch the cultch arm. Watch the drive plate and see if it swings when shifting between gears i.e. backing off away from the friction disk.
Grab the splined shaft the friction disk rides on to see if there is any play especially on the right side as you look into the tractor section. The shaft fits into a ball bearing on the right could be the problem or part of the problem
The pivoting shaft at the base of the clutch arm could also be a problem but very unlikely. The same with the tightness of the transmission housing to that shaft. Shake them to make sure.
The drive plate location is adjusted by the cable nut on the cable that goes to the clutch arm. Further adjustment is done by the bolt attached to spring (8) at the bottom of the tractor section. If nothing is loose or worn in there then you should be able to adjust those two to make the friction disk firmly touch the drive plate when in gear. When in neutral the pull from the spring should be offset by the pull of the cable from the shift lever and pulling the drive plate away from the friction disk. Adjust the cable nut and the spring tension to make that happen. If that can not be done then there may be slop or wear someplace and you’ll have to poke around to see where it is.
Shifting into reverse and third pulls on the clutch arm cable and to the drive transmission cable and could also be the issue. It could be that the cable needs adjust, is frozen somehow or the transmission itself is gone. If everything there is ok and no problems with the drive plate, friction disk movements and adjustments then the transmission is suspect. You could try engaging the clutch and hand turning the pulley (spark plug line pulled out) to see if the drive plate is moving in all gears. You could support the machine on the base to lift the wheels off the ground and pull on the start rope with the clutch engaged. The drive plate should move in all gears.
That’s all I can think of at the moment. I’m not all that familiar with Honda as I just got one last week and had drive issues on mine so just getting familiar with the internals. I’d be interested in what the issue is.
This message was modified Nov 11, 2010 by trouts2