trouts2

    Never used a plastic float.  I don’t know if they ride different or are set the same way.  You can ballpark it by setting similar to the brass float then subtracting a hair from the tang to open slightly early.

 

>>The carb linkages do open the throttle part way when the lever is at "fast" I was under

>>the impression that this was normal, and the govenor would open the throttle more

>>when needed. Is that correct?

   Yes, the linkage throttle movement is a gross movement so it’s probably fine.  The governor is generally active at slowing down the motor (pushed internally by flyweights) or passivly being pulled back by throttle springs.

 

>>I did install a inline fuel filter, could that be causing problems? but, then again, the carb from the st824 works fine with it.....

 

   Also, draining fuel out of the nut will double check that  Remember, you just cleaned your carb and having problems which act like the carb is dirty.  You might want to check things again because it looks like some area you cleaned or set right is now dirty or set incorrectly.  It won’t need another dip but poking the passageways and verifying the float will probably cure it.

   Every time you put the gas line back on you are pushing hard on an old line that can easily break off crud immediatly or loosen the wall  which will fall off later.  Chances are the line did not come off easily and you had to use pliers or wedge a screw drive behind the line to get it off.  That puts a lot of stress on an old line. 

   

 

    If you can keep it running well for a while on primer then your gas line, float, needle are probably ok and no vacuum leak.  The float is working but the level could be off. 

    Your main jet needle should look like the one on that website i.e. the tip cut off.  7's and below had the pointed tip.  8's and above cut off.  You could try the nut and jet from the good working carb. 

    Some carbs are wicked fussy about the float level.  They are basically the same so I think it’s do to the way the machine sits.  Some ST824s sit level, some droop towards the handlebars and some a bit forward.  You seem starved so you could squeeze the tank a hair to see if that helps.  If you can run for a short period (no prime) then it stops then let it sit for a while and it starts and runs for a short period again then it’s probably the float level.

    Are your carb linkages opening the throttle plate when you put it on full throttle?   You could open the choke butterfly and look in to be sure.

   1 turn on the idle and 1 ½ on the main jet are enough to get a carb to run so don’t bother with trying any adjustments until fine tuning after you locate whatever the problem is. 

 

   Seems like crud or a float adjustment. 

You can get the Tecumseh factory number off the cowling and go to the link below for part numbers.  It should be stamped on top.

http://www.outdoordistributors.com/Tecumseh/Tecumsehpartslists.html

 

Do you have pullback causing the handle to pull out of your hands?  Timing.too advanced or gap too small causing an early fire?

 

Did you just break the starter cord with all the pulling?  A new cord can be strung pretty easily.

 

For the cost of a new tank and recoil you could get a motor.  There are plenty of glues around that will be ok with gas if the crack or hole is suitable for patching.  Patching a tank is a bother.  You can pickup a second hand tank

 

To see if it will run you can start it and keep punching the primer to get gas to it.  It seems like it still could have a block someplace.  The bowl is stepped.  The lower portion with the dimple goes away from the float hinge. 

  It's probably just some left over dregs and the carb will cleanup and be fine after another basic run through.  I dip in two solutions for 24 hours, give it an ultrasonic bath, then wash with carb spray then compressed air.  Occasionally it will act just like yours and it ends up some crud was missed.  I re-do the basics below and it's usually enough to get it going properly.   The chances of needing a new carb around about 200:1.

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/tecumseh_carb_632334a.asp

 

Running a quart of gas through the tank out of the carb line to flush crud in the line that often causes problems.  Catch gas in a white cup and look for crud.  Often I'll run a half gallon through but still end up with bowl dregs after putting the carb back on.  The dregs are usually bits from the gas line that get loose from handling and break off later.

 

Spray through the carb inlet, both directions with the inlet line removed.

 

Check the carb seat is ribbed side in and fully seated.

 

Take the needle out of the bowl nut and spray in there.  Clean both holes in the nut with a thin wire, i.e. stripped tie wrap.  One is tiny and just above the bottom threads where the smooth area starts.

 

Run a thin wire up into the main tube i.e. runs from the bottom of carb into the throat.  Put slight bends in the tube so they just graze the tube inside.  Stick the carb spray tube at the tube and spray up into it.

 

Remove the choke butterfly and run a wire in the main jet air inlet at the base of the choke butterfly.  At least stick the carb spray tube there and spray in.

 

Check the float setting for 11/64 between rim and float with the carb turned upside down.  Use a drill of that size laid across the bowl rim. The float should just touch the drill.

 

Check if the needle is sticking on the seat by moving the float up and down a few time and watching the needle.  It may stick lightly but pull off as you lower the bowl.

 

Spray into the primer port and watch the flat on the outside of the carb just above the low idle adjust for a spray out of the air vent hole (tiny).  Also spray in the base welch cutout by the main jet base and watch for a fluid out of the same hole.

 

Remove the idle jet and spray in there.

The gear box came in three types in 924xxx's, two cast iron and one aluminum.  Many of the 1032's around are cast iron.