Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Is there a simple way to disconnect the governor arm from the carborator? I've removed the bolts that hold the carb on but it won't slide off (It needs cleaned big time) because the of the linkage to the governor arm (wire rod and spring).  The shop manual says to remove one of the two screws that hold it on, but I'm not sure which one should be removed or what will happen to the governor if I do remove them.  I have heard that governors are really hard to adjust and I was trying to avoid that agrevation.  I've labels the two screws "A" and "B"  (one of them is really a bolt).

friiy wrote: Yes it shakes. You cannot balance a quarter on this one.  Apparently Yamaha engines are known for vibration issues  when carbon builds up someplace (the cylinder head?) .  The engine is mounted on big rubber bumpers and the fuel tank has its own set of rubber bumpers. I was thinking of wrapping some fine wire around the vibrating arm. I worried I'd wreck something if I started hammering away.  But if you have any ideas I'm game.  The shaking does not send vibration down to the choke plate (not yet anyway.)  If I find a tach, what do I point it at? The shaft coming out out to the pulleys and belts?

http://www.tinytach.com/tinytach/gasoline.php

This is the kind I have used for years, It has a induction pickup wire  you wrap around the spark plug wire ( around the insulation, you dont want to send engien spark down the pick-up wire)

Friiy

friiy wrote: This is from the manual to my snowblower's smaller 6hp twin.  The two engins are very similiar.

What you do with the choke is:

    With a small punch (with the diameter about the size of the float pin) tap the top of the brass shaft of the carb.  Tap just tap hard enough to start denting and moving/ flareing out he brass over the steel choke plate and arm...  After that I would clean the area  with contact cleaner and ruff it up with some heavy Scotch bright  (maroon color).   Clean it again with contack cleaner and put a drop of epoxy  ( like JB weld) on the shaft and plate-arm area.  Just to reinforce the shaft to arm area and to prevent fretting and wear.

   Friiy

Wow,   seems high.. your's is a 8hp?    Where do you see full speed?

You said you saw something on the motor rated at  ##hp @ 3200 rpm or so?

.Friiy

friiy wrote:

Yes mine is 8hp.  Nobody can find the service manual for the 8hp, but the specs for the 6hp is often very close.  The maximum torque (HP?)  for the 6hp is rated at 2800 rpms.  The max RPM is 4000 rpm.

 

My first big splurge on the Yamaha.  (it's earned a little pampering after all these years).  I found a see-thru filter at Volkswagen shop $2, a piece of 1/4 fuel line (not sure what size I needed) $3 and some BJ weld (they give you a black tube and a red tube to mix together) $4. .  Oh, and I picked up a multimeter with a clamp for a spark plug.  I'm storing the snowblower outside until I know it does not leak gas. I have started storing my plastic gas tanks outside too.  Just a little piece of mind. 

 

I hooked up the mutimeter's tach clamp and  got a  reading on the rpms.  The multimeter did not give me just one number, it was more like a range of numbers so I just took the average. The idle RPM has been adjusted and is now running at 2000 and sounds much quieter and calmer that it did before.  I cannot reach the limiting (high) screw with my short screwdriver so I could not adjust it. But I did get a sense of where 4000 rpm is on the throtte.  I was running it higher that that for a few intermitten moments before, I hope I didn't wreck anything.  The motor does still shake more that I think it should at idle but at idle it is now quiet enough to easily talk over.

The snowblower started right up without and issue (electric start) and it was cool out tonight (34 F).  The oil was changed and has remained clear ( the engine has a viewing window for the oil reservoir that is really interesting to watch)  Should tachs give a range or just one number?

Not sure if I'm reading the spec sheet correctly but the snow thrower is a Yamaha with a side valve engine?  Honestly, I've never heard of nor seen a Japanese side valve engine.  Not that they don't exist.  I just haven't seen one in all of my years.   Japanese have been techno leaders in engine design.  I'm curious how old the snow thrower is?  

Borat,  The old Colman generators back in the early to mid 80's were all Kawasaki l head engines ( the first Powermate's) ,  John Deer had on all its large mowing tractors a separate 5 hp L head Kawasaki vaccum/ blower motor to drive clippings up the bag chute...   Also the first Honda mowers I worked on were L head on the HR215..

honda made for a time a 2.5 hp motor (L head ) that went on the Mclane edgers which was real sweet.  My dad has a EM3000 honda generator with the first CDI ignition that is L head.

The stuff really flurished out west back in the early 80's and stayed until California started enacting smog and noise requirements,   That's when the OHV started to take off for us. 

The L head stuff that was made was great,   It was like they took all the features the mechanics liked and placed it in a Aluminum block,   Big ball bearings,  unboltable rewind,  quite muffler,  chrome sheilds over the muffler,  float carb, CDI ignition standard. oil alert / shutoff.  IT was like they took motorcycle engineering and put it lawn mowers with high gloss paint...

I think you were able to get so much more because the doller was worth so much over in Japan.

Things I miss :

Kawasaki TD24d motor (2 cycle)

Echo CS280   saw

Echo PB210E blower

Echo 2 stroke mower (4 hp) .  Borat,  thats what you have right?

Toro 2 stroke commerical lawn mower with the Suzuki engine

Wisconsin Robin 5 hp (L head)

Oh well,  

Friiy