Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Is there a simple way to disconnect the governor arm from the carborator? I've removed the bolts that hold the carb on but it won't slide off (It needs cleaned big time) because the of the linkage to the governor arm (wire rod and spring).  The shop manual says to remove one of the two screws that hold it on, but I'm not sure which one should be removed or what will happen to the governor if I do remove them.  I have heard that governors are really hard to adjust and I was trying to avoid that agrevation.  I've labels the two screws "A" and "B"  (one of them is really a bolt).

Put the carb back in the vice and tap it out lightly with a small punch (like 3/32 or so)    it"s gotta come out>>

friiy

friiy wrote:

 I have not been able to get the screw of the main jet  to budge. I did take a lighter and try to heat up the brass jet. I will try tapping with a hammer if I can find a way to hold the carb in a vise.  I have never seen a "soft sided vise" but I will look around for one of those.  I didn't have any "Mouse's Milk" or " Aero-kroll"  penetrating oil may but I did have some liquid wrench  so I put some of that on the brass of the jet.  i'm going to cross my fingers that the next time I get this carb on the bowl will fill with fuel. 

You can make the faces of the vice non-marring by putting something soft on the faces to grip the carb.

I use a small peice of aluminum sheet cut to go over the grip of the vice(for a smooth soft grip) .   This is used for cast parts...

I put a piece oif rubber over the vice face for hard plastics,   or a piece of linoleum flooring over the vice face for delicate machined parts (it has good grip)..

Sometimes I will use soft side of velcro for some small parts that slide around in the vice...

Or you can use some paint sticks,  once.... 

Ohhh.  I hold all this to the vice face with double sided carpet tape..

Keep us up-to-date

Friiy

I got the pin out (finally), got the float and needle off. I squirted some carb cleaner in the fuel intake but nothing would come out the needle valve hole. Then I hooked up a compressor and with a nozzle I blew compressed air through the intake. It took a while (3 or 4 tries) but the air came through. There did not seem to be an object clogging the line. It seemed more like fuel deposits built up on the walls of the small orifice of the carburetor. I still have not been able to free the jets. I ground down a custom screwdriver and carefully wrapped the shaft in tape to keep from damaging the threaded walls of the shaft. I let the carb soak overnight in penetrating oil. I borrowed a pencil torch but I'm really nervous about heating this thing up. What if I melt it or crack it? I have had all sorts of interesting adventures with the propane torch. Any thoughts?

I would not use that torch, you are going to catch yourself on fire.... Try a torch like this.

These torchs are cheep and run on butane,    with this you can heat only the jet can keep the carb cool.  ( as long as you don't go crazy)...

If you can't get that jet / nozzle out,  I would try to run the carb with with out pulling it out...  ( If the carb fails to run, take it back apart and  keep working at it)

Remember to only heat the brass jet, It will (may) swell with heat and break it's bond with the carb body.  I would keep a wet shop towel around the carb body to keep it form getting hot. it should only take a few seconds..

I think alot of places sell these small pencil torches or similar,  I bought one at harbour Freight and one at Lowes made by Weller...

Good Luck,          

Friiy

OK, that was a close one, glad I didn't go crazy with the extra large sized pencil torch.  Instead I went out to the garage and got the lighter I use to start the grill. Seems to have done the job because the jet screw finally let go. I  held the carb body with a damp cloth and only heated the jet screw for three seconds. Then gave the screw a four nice taps with the screwdriver and small hammer.  It worked.  Thanks for the image of the small pencil torch, like they say; " a picture is worth a thousand words."     The custom ground screwdriver was a life saver.  Only about a third of the jets were clogged when I spayed carb cleaner through them to clean them out.

Cool,   Is the throttle shaft and choke shaft turning free?    If you shoot carb cleaner through the adjustment needle on the side of the carb, can you see spray on the inside of the carb venturi next to the throttle shaft (it should come out small holes there..  On that carb there is 2 or 3 holes ).

I would start by flushing the fuel tankand check for gummy brown deposits on the bottom... check your fuel lines for rot,  inside and out (The inside gets gummy like wet bread).

You may want to get a small fuel filter for the fuel line,  I like the cheap small paper ones that VW bugs used,  they are see through and you can spot water and dirt in them..

Does this have a fuel pump?,   If so you may need to flush or replace the diaphrams and gaskets..

If so put it back together ans see if it starts.    See if it leaks when it sits, you may need to replace the fuel inlet needle...

Good luck,

Friiy

friiy wrote:

Is the adjustment needle that  you are refering to identified as #6 in the diagram above?  Sure, I can try to spray carb cleaner in there. I do not know where the venturi is or where its small holes might be. 

I did clean out the gas tank and flushed out the gas lines.  I could not locate replacement diaphrams for the (Mikuni?) fuel pump so I chickened out on the idea of opening it up. I just soaked it an flushed it out a few times. It does seem to be working.  I would agree with your recommendation for a fuel filter. I think this is the weak link in the fuel delivery system.  There's a small sediment bowl under the gas tank and a filter screen on top of the tank for large particulates. But there is nothing to filter the finer particles.  That said, I would not want a fuel filter that would interrupt the function and flow of the fuel pump.  

Sorry,  The venturi is the narrowest part of the carb throat...   The holes I am talking about are where the throttle butterfly wipes past the inside wall of the carb as the butterfly opens from fully closed postion.. on the same side of course as the needle adjustment screw.

Have you tried to start that thing up yet?  Or check for leaks?....   It  should start/run,  you just need to find out if you need to replace the inlet needle at this point.

Friiy

I have been dying to go get the carb back on and try it out. But family stuff got in the way all weekend.  The needle valve looks good to me but I would like to polish the small channel that it slides up in to. I noticed before that it would sometimes stick or hesitate when it moved up or down.  The snowblower has not run in a long time and I thought I would put some fresh oil in the crank case. Here's an image of the needle's  tip .