| Name |
Glenn McKeon |
| Email Address |
private |
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Normal user |
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| Number of Posts |
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| Date Joined |
Sep 22, 2010 |
| Date Last Access |
Mar 10, 2013 10:37 am |
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Re: What to do with my backfiring Briggs Engine on My New Ariens Snowblower
#1 Mar 10, 2013 10:36 am |
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My Ariens w/Briggs OHV engine did the same thing when new. Just have to throttle down PAINFULLY slowly. And always throttle down before shutoff. It seemed to do it less and less as time (seasons) went on, or maybe I just have the procedure down by now!
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Re: Clarence's Impeller Kit
#2 Mar 10, 2013 10:29 am |
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I have installed an impeller kit (home made) on my Ariens Platinum 24 (2010 model). I can tell you that it does improve the throw distance and slush capability a bit, but probably not nearly as much as on some of the older machines. Would I do it again? Yes, because I seem to always want to fix things that aren't broken  . But it's a bit of work and don't expect miracles out of it on these newer machines. |
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Craftsman 5hp 22" SS Model 536.881500 not clearing snow evenly?
#3 Feb 19, 2013 8:11 am |
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This machine has worked perfectly since I bought it new about 10 years ago. I changed the rubber paddles and the scraper late last year and now it seems to be hitting the pavement unevenly and not clearing cleanly down to the driveway. It throws some snow backwards under the scraper bar. I figured that the rubber was a little uneven and soon it would all wear down and even out but not yet. To change the paddles I had to drill the rivets out and I installed the new ones with 1/4" SS hardware. Could it be out of balance? Can you "shave down" high spots on the paddles? Just try to loosen & reposition the paddles? Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this problem?
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Re: Misery from not properly storing a new Ariens....
#4 Dec 12, 2012 8:56 am |
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I was negligent last year and never put my new 11.5HP Platinum Ariens into storage. It sat with 1/2 tank of fuel from the dealer, was never used during that remarkable winter and now.... when I tried starting it not a thing happened. The motor turned over without a sputter.
Having learned a few things from reading this board (thank you) I found the carb and cleaned out the not surprisingly clogged jet with a single strand of wire from lamp cord. The bottom of the bowl was clean, I reused the bowl gaskets tightening things enough that it didn't leak. I didn't want to overdo it. It started immediatly
I then added 1/2 tank of fresh gas to the 1/2 tank of old gas that came with it, some Stabil, and inflated the tires to 18PSI.
Some questions:
1) Should I check on or clean anything else?
2) Is there a service manual for the engine? Just looking at it, I didn't know which cover to remove to find the carb and still don't know which cover the spark plug is hiding under. I see generic instructions for operating the engine, but not for service.
3) The inside of the bowl was uniform all around, and there's a tail of sorts molded into the exterior underside. Does it matter which direction it's installed? I know with the older carbs it does, but it didn't seem to matter with this one.
Of interest, I had an older 9526DLE stored next to it, under similar circumstances, and it started instantly. I've got the same model that you have. I hate to be the bearer of bad news but it is an 1150 series B&S polar force motor which means 11.5 ft/lbs of torque, NOT 11.5 hp. Actual hp rating for this motor is in the 8.5 range, give or take. This is still very good compared to many new 24" 2 stage machines that are using 179 & 208cc engines (around 5.5hp & 6.5hp). At least the 250cc B&S Polar Force has ball bearings on the crankshaft main journals as opposed to sleeve bearings. The latest Polar Force also has a cast iron cylinder sleeve...not sure if this is new or if it has always been there. Perhaps Snowmann can verify when these extra features came into play on Polar Force motors.
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Re: Toro 621 series question
#5 Nov 17, 2012 8:52 pm |
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Ahhhh, yeahhhh.......Why not more expensive complicated gizmos on SS machines? After all, they're such c-u-mbersome machines to use.....NOT.
Anyone who owns/operates a 221/621QRE knows that there is no need for more gizmos. The machines work very well as is. I own one and had never felt the need for more/easier controls. As it is, it's the easiest operating machine I own and I have a few.
If one is that physically limited to need electric quick shoot controls on a light, nimble easy to use SS machine, maybe they shouldn't be operating a snowblower? They should be looking at having a custom built remote control unit that they can operate from the comfort of their Lazy Boy. What? You have a 221 QRE? No such machine. Q would be a quick chute. Who needs that clumsy complicated convenience when a manual handle will do the job just fine?(kidding) R is recoil start and E means electric start. Why do you rail against some added convenience when you've got some of it on your machine already (and claim you like it!) . I never said anything about electric controlled chute controls. When I said joystick control I was referring to the single stick mechanical joystick similar to what they use on their 2 stage machines...adding a cable and a simple mechanism to do remote chute deflection. Adds maybe a pound to the weight of the machine...and it would be just as nimble as before. And some obviously are not too thrilled by the zip deflector so perhaps that is an area for improvement anyway. My current SS has a crank handle for chute rotation which works fine but the friction deflector would be nicer if I could control it from the dashboard as well. That's all. I can see by your video that you don't use your chute deflection very much anyway. I do.
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