Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Hello,
So I've been working to get my 'new' 1985 ST1136 back in good form and I've found that the axle bearings are a quite worn. After taking the wheels off I can't figure out how to get the axle shafts out from the differential unit. The only method I can think of is to pound out a 1/4"x1-1/4" pin that is on the diff lock at the end of the axle. Can anyone tell me how to get this apart? I've tried to hammer out the pin and it doesn't look like it wants to move...

I got this blower used and it's a little rusty but a very nice working machine. After I replace the wheel bearings I think that I'll have a really good blower. I purchased this machine for $700CAD used, not bad for a professional machine with the cast gearbox and diff lock. I hadn't been a big fan of Briggs but this one has an 11hp engine and after a carb rebuild it's working really well!

Thanks,
Craig

Thanks,
Craig

After speaking to my dealer he mentioned that some units used a tapered pin in the axle hub, can anyone confirm this? He told me to hit it one way and if no action hit it the other, he said they always come out OK.

Craig,

Have you checked the exploded parts section for your model at the Ariens Web Page Parts Radar?

I have, they don't show the axle / diff for my blower, I haven't checked for other models that might be the same thought.

Craig,

Maybe try using a rust buster like PB Blaster and see if frees them up.

The #3 taper pin I have is 1.780 long .220 at the big end and .185 at the small end. If it is a taper pin you can try to measure to see if it is tapered.

its a solid pinand yes it is tapered and it has a small spline on the larger end.

its very dificult to see and it has just 1 or 2 slashes in it..thats the end that comes out. easier way would be to measure it with a vernier.

and they do come out very hard.

long piece of steel and a big hammer ,also support it on the other side while TAPPING.

later chris

Thanks for the pin info!

I got it out last night, turns out I just needed a larger hammer and a new 3/16" drift. The way I started to hit it was so that I saw the splines comming out the other end so I did it right. BTW, I supported the hub assembly with a piece of maple that I cut to fit between the floor and the flat part of the hub. It came out very easily once I got all setup.

After I got the bearings out it was apparent that they were toast, the one lost it's rubber seal and ate some grit. I also took out the differental, I wanted to soak all the old grease out of it and clean it up but it looks like it is geased then rivited together. I won't de-grease it it I can't re-grease it!

Thanks again,

Craig