Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I've been advised to start a new post and add some details...

It's an 8HP HMSK 80 about three years old, used maybe a half of dozen times.  I've drained the gas tank after every season and ran it til the carb was dry.  The number on the carb is 5002C19.

So I went out again this morning with last night's new snow and it kicked over.  That screw I played with the other day was just the idle crack and is ok.  Like I said, it started but needs full choke and half throttle to stay running and even then it surges.  I managed about ten to fifteen minutes before had no power at all and I nursed it back to the garage.  I let it cool down, loosen the gas cap and tried again...no start at all.  A blast of starting fluid in carb gets it going but then it dies.

Any suggestions???

Pete

Chris,
If someone was not comfortable taking the carb off, could they remove the bowl and bowl nut and clean the bowl, really clean and poke the bowl nut clean, spray the internal parts of the carb you can get to, with attention to holes and passages, reassemble and see if it does any good? Or is this a waste of time?

I've done that on a Tecumseh engine that I couldn't get going too easy.  I curious too Chris.  It seemed to help.

Pete,

You may also want to replace your bowl with one that incorporates the bowl drain valve.  As previously mentioned, at least a half shot glass worth of fuel always remains in the bowl after you've run the engine until it dies.  The bowl drain removes every last drop.

Rob asked.If someone was not comfortable taking the carb off, could they remove the bowl and bowl nut and clean the bowl, really clean and poke the bowl nut clean, spray the internal parts of the carb you can get to, with attention to holes and passages, reassemble and see if it does any good? Or is this a waste of time?
That's a good question.
There are a couple of things that you have too be careful of when you do it that way. On a 3 year old unit....that has been drained every year...there really shouldnt be a great deal of "green crud" built up in the carb bowl.
Like Chris said....there will be some fuel left in the bowl....no matter how much it was "drained."
But...usually....it will settle in the bottom 1/3 of the bowl. That is the area where the bowl nut is most vulnerable too problems....not "higher up" in the carb itself. (The emulsion tube, low speed circuit, vent etc.)
Just removing the bowl nut....and cleaning it is one thing. (That will take care of "most" problems and get the machine running.)
Actually removing the float bowl, with the machine in the normal position, is something that cause other problems....if you are not aware of what those "other problems" can be.
Meaning: If you take the bowl off....the float will instantley drop. It will hang in the hinge pin.....and not fall apart....but it can "unhook" from the wire that is connected too the needle valve. The needle valve will not fall out from the seat area....but when you put the bowl back on.....the float tang will now be under the wire hook....and force the needle against the seat...and totally shut off the fuel flow too the bowl. (Does that make any sense?)
You also have too be careful with the O-ring that seals the float bowl...sometimes if it slips....or gets pinched when you put the bowl back on (easy too do.) the seal between the bowl and carb is broken. When that happens, the carb will not prime. (It needs too seal or pressure cant build up in the bowl....and force fuel up into the throat of the carb where it will do any good.)

If this is an "emissions" carb.....many "surging" problems lie in the pilot jet. That is located under a grey plastic cap....on the left hand side of the carb body...where the old "low speed mixture screw" used too be. If you pop that cap, there is a brass colored slotted "screw". Sometimes guys find that and mistake it for an adjustment screw. (It's not!) They will turn it out 1 and half turns...like in the old days....but it doesnt work that way.
That pilot jet can be removed and cleaned. (There is a really tiny passage on the tip of it that can be cleaned with a really tiny wire.) But when you put it  back....make sure it is tight. (But not too tight...or you can screw up the tip of the jet.)

I dont know if any of this adds too the topic of this thread....but I think it is relevent if you decide too dig into the carb either on or removed the unit. HTH.

another possibility although slim.....check the carb mounting bolts, if they nave loosened it could be sucking air causing it to run way lean. (i had this happen on my tiller a couple of years ago.)

sure does sound like its running lean though.

I've had to prime my mower several times in cold weather to get it started.  I guess after so many removals of the bowl and cleaning the nut, it has lost some of its seal. 

wow...

Buttlint posted a reply that i was on my way to do and i just cant add anything to it.

eccellent job Lint you should get extra credit for that one.but ill add a little...

i sometimes tip the blower to the service position and clean the carb this way without removing it but for a novice this can be trouble.

if your are familiar with this style carb ,like Lint and myself then no problem.im sure Lint could do this with his eyes closed.

but it can be tricky.

worst thing is to do nothing.

try to clean it and we can help if necessary.

later chris

Here is my two cents worth on this...It sounds like a fuel delivery problem to me.  According to Tecumseh's trouble shooting chart, and lining up all of your common problems, they indicate the following:

Plugged tank filler or vent

Fuel pick-up restricted

Damaged Adjustment needles

Main Nozzle restricted

Dirty, stuck needle and seat.

I agree with the others not to use ether to help start the blower, the ether does not burn but explodes in the cylinder.  It could lead to a broken piston.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, my blower did not come with a fuel filter or shut off valve.  I added both.  I must be lucky, but in all of my years with OPE, I always store the off season equipment with stabilized fuel in them.  I have NEVER had to have a carburator rebuilt or cleaned, only slight adjustments.

bbwb

we've always stored our stuff "wet" too.  Goes back to my dad doing it i guess.  Stablized fuel, about 1/2 tank or better and put her away.  We've never had a problem either.

thats what i reccomend...

stabilized fuel and run it for 10 minutes or so.

even better if you stabilize all your fuel when you buy it,you never know when you will use equipment or stop using for the season.

later chris