Carb off Ariens Snowblower Original Message May 26, 2014 5:42 pm
Hi everyone this is my first post! Well let me first say that I am a new homeowner and I acclaimed a new to me snowblower around November last year. I had used it all winter and it wasn't running that great. It took many pulls get started and once started it would die. Then I would have to turn the choke up very, very, very slow, so by the time it was ready to blow I was 10, 15 minutes in... Anyway how do I go about disassembling this and cleaning it? Any videos on my model?
Joined: Dec 16, 2005
Re: Carb off Ariens Snowblower Reply #1 May 27, 2014 3:16 pm
bmark! you want to turn the carb over and locate the needle in center of the bottom of the flat bowl. gently turn the needle in and count the number of turns till it "LIGHTLY BOTTOMS" all the way in.record the turns so you dont forget and you have a starting index when you put it back together. once recorded you can completely remove the needle and spring.now remove the brass nut that the needle was screwed into. it is in the bottom center of the float bowl as noted above. this will get the float bowl off so the inside of the carb can be cleaned with carb cleaner. the nut you removed will have some very small holes in it and they need to be cleaned so they are not possably plugged and limiting fuel pickup/delivery. most times when the carb wont run without the choke partially on it is the small holes that are partially obstructed. there is also a mixture screw on the side middle of the carb for curb idle mixture control. that can be indexed and recorded before removing for cleaning as well. you will most likely need a new carb bowl rubber seal and quite possably the bottom brass nut seal. sometimes you get lucky and can reuse them. you can get these parts as well as a needle and seat for the float fuel shutoff in a carb kit. most small engine shops can order one if they don't have them in stock. clean the heck out off all internals and use light compress air to blow out all the gunk. once you get it back together and running check that there is no upper bowl leak or bottom bowl nut leak. i like to use a good bit of sea foam to help clean things out as well as it is running. the idle mixture screw and high speed needle at the bottom of the carb bowl both have an initial adjustment of 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated all the way in. my 8hp tecumseh was close on the idle mix screw setting but ran better with the high speed screw (bottom of carb bowl) at 2 to 2 1/4 turns out from bottom. in your bottom picture the float bowl nut/high speed needle is to the left and located at the bottom of the gas bowl, the slow speed or idle mix screw is mid point right to left and facing up between the two hex head screw heads and under the indent or curve in the metal strap. the screw by the spring on the right looks like the idle speed screw to set the curb idle rpms. i beleave 1700 rpm is the curb idle speed. if everything is mechanically sound, clean, in good shape, and has no air leaks when put back together it should run better. hope this helps