Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Hello,

This is my first post here.

I recently got a used old Honda HS35 snowblower for $80.

It starts and runs with choke 'closed'. The choke knob is loose, moves around with the vibration.And when I put the choke on 'open' position it most of the time surges (up and down). I added some seafoam and noticed that it helped it stabilize on that day. I started it again today and it still surges when the choke is 'open' during the first few minutes, then stabilizes. Is this normal?  To start the machine the choke needs to be 'closed' or it won't start.

 This is my first snowblower, I have not worked on a snowblower before.

Auger's rubber parts are not new, the previous owner said he replaced them 3 years ago.It looks like rubber parts are worn by about half an inch maybe.Because I can see where the tip of the rubber was at one point by looking at the very thin end of the rubber.

Scraper bar is not rubber, it looks like it is made from harder plastic and the edges have 3-5 indents froms scraping. Do I have to replace these this year or will they work for now?

Is the price I paid fair for the machine I described above? Is it too much?

Thanks.

Thanks.

bluemonster,

I had an issue with my choke as well because it was not connected.  Please take a look inside and make sure the Choke knob rod is connected to your carburator. I had to put some paint on the metal rod to make it thick and now the Choke knob does not move around and moves as directed so it works great. 

If  you don't have the choke working, it would be very hard to start.  I should be getting my OEM scrape bar and belt next Tue so I will can finish the project for now,  Your rubber pedals are no good and they are too worn out.  These rubber augers are real pain in the neck to install.

I do not know any efficient way to install them.  $36 is the best price I got including shipping.  These are not OEM as they are about twice as much. We will find out when we get some real snow.

Replacing those rubber auger in the HS621 is quite a chore too.  There are a lot of fasteners.  Make sure you inspect the condition of the fasteners, throw out the badly corroded one.  Also use anti-seize compound on the threads, lightly.

Do you think your Toro would be easier?  How's your father HS520 to change?  I think they are about the same.  The curves on the auger rubber make it very difficult to align them.   I am sure it is not time yet. It took a lot of brute force to get them off and install them.

MN_Runner wrote:
The Toro is easier for sure, there are a lot less fasteners, the rubber is soft, and they use hex on both sides.  Two box end wrench or socket on each side is all the two tools you need.  They use standard fasteners that can be found anywhere.

The HS520 would be similar to the HS35.  Don't tighten any fasteners until you get all of them in, this give you some flexibility and movement to align the holes. 

First curved rubber took me 45 min because of the learning curve then it was okay but still not that easy.  Having hard rubber makes it difficult when you have to curve it.

MN_Runner wrote:

I did that, thank you MN_Runner.I think the wire like rod was not fully on where it was supposed to be.I will do the paint trick also.Thank you.

Did you use two socket wrenches at once?Can I use a plier at one end (washer)?

All the bolts I can unscrew up to a point without the second wrench, then they do not move at all.I left it like that yesterday.Sprayed some more PB.

Manual suggests using soapy water to make it easier but I wonder if it would really work...Slippery...

Scraper bar was the easiest part, so you are done preparing the snow blower for the season then. :)

blumonster wrote:

I used 10 mm wrench and 10 mm socket wrench.  I used all combinations to get the grip within the given space.  All of my bolts came off easy.  The issue was slipping the rubber back in place.  I had to pry the spacings to make it fit.  In order to ease the slipping in process, I used armoral spray on the rubbers and metal to reduce the friction.  The scraper bar was not too bad, all four screws came off without a hitch.  The plastic liner points to the front and not to the back as shown in the owners manual.  My scraper and belts are coming in tomorrow so I will be able to complete the functional job.  I am going to buy some black marine paint then go over the rusts so I can work on the physical attributes.  I have sanded the rust spots off best I could but certain spots are beyond my interests.  My RPM is around 2700-2800 and the owners manual says 3600 RPM at the operating range.  What is your RPM?  What is the part number you got for your HS35 scraper?

MN_Runner wrote:

MN_Runner,

The plastic facing forward is the new design for HS35s starting with frame serial number 1048.... Mine is 1042...At some point the owner must have adopted the new design since the older design is obsolete, parts are discontinued.

Scraper part number is

11-75201-730-010 : BLADE, SCRAPER		SHIPPED		1	1	0	18.95	18.95
(Replacement part for 11-75201-730-000)

It is a part which was made in Japan.

Did you take the auger off to sand? Our garage is not heated, if I paint it probably won't dry and cure as it should.Maybe next year.

If your HS35's frame serial number is smaller than 1048... its ignition should be through 'breaker points' too.That is another design change according to the manual.

I do not know how to gauge RPM. How did you do it?

This HS35 has a backward facing scraper design:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oce4k1ysl4Y&feature=related

I notice that it is in very good condition but I do not see the purpose of that wooden stick there.