Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I have a Craftsman 19hp Twin Turbo lawn tractor with hydrostatic transmission. Recently, the tractor does not go up hills or at any incline like it used to. When the tractor first starts, it seems to be OK. Then, as it heats up, a high pitched whine emanates from the tractor when I attempt to go uphill. I changed the front motion drive belt, but this had no effect. Sears will charge me $96 just to look at it, and if it is the transaxle, it would probably be better if I bought a new tractor?? Looking for advice...it is a sealed unit, but is it missing some fluid? Thanks for any help.

I have a sears craftsman DYT 4000 series..was mowing with it last summer..put on brake to lift deck..after lowering deck mower would not move forward or backward..also had a screeching sound when put in gear..Back tires wont turn at all even when pulled...mower is about 6 yrs.old...wondering if it could be some of these other problems i have read on here such as brake or the gear oil...Seras wants 400.00 for a rebuilt tranny..I know I wont by another Sears mower..have had to put 2 new carbs on it sense I have had it..Should I try some of these suggestions first

Since it happened all at once, including when you applied the brake, and moved the mower deck, it makes me wonder if something more straightforward happened. As you mentioned, perhaps the brake, or brake linkage, got stuck? You might look down at the rear axle for the brake assembly, and find the cable or rod that actuates it. With the brake engaged/released, does the cable/rod move smoothly back and forth?

Does the tractor have a lever to disengage the transmission? Something like a setting to make it easier to roll? Can you push it with that feature enabled?

Are the transmission and deck belts both on properly? Is anything touching the transmission belt that should not be?

Does it screech immediately when put into gear, or only once you release the brake, and try to actually move?

I would check the simpler things like these before I considered doing anything with the transmission itself.

In my search for the solution to my 20HP  V Twin model 272440  hydro transaxel p/n 166678- buy new lawn tractor (didn't like the new model options),spend big bucks on new or rebuilt replacement or buy a used one online (questionable reliablilty) I have also experienced some of the other problems along with  transaxle probs you guys have discussed on here and would like to offer what has worked for me.
 To the the guy with the won't move forward or backward suddenly problem , I had and resolved the same problem. The gear lever retention spring (not the proprer name of it I'm sure -look for it in your manual's diagram  was replaced and checked the brake adjustment at same time. The problem was that the  tranny belt kept coming off  (thus wouldn't go forward of backward suddenly and it was a real bugger to get off and back on since it jammed under the  the pulley  each time-plus sometimes also damages the belt. So anyway-replaced the spring (you can get a glimpse of it down thru the opening where your  F-N-R gear lever is). After and not until I put back on the wheel weights and the tire chains did it solve the problem immediatly and no problem with it since then.

I have same problem thats been coming on for a a couple of mowing seasons-the whine especially on hills and seems to be loosing some power on hills also (have to move the gear lever forward more now to get the same speed out of the transaxle as I used to). Then recently started getting another noise (it was the fan on top of trans. hitting the support bar sometimes particularly when pulling a loaded trailer). I did have the Sears tech come out who discovered all the above and gave and showed me in my manual and online the p/n for a new one $1000. or rebuilt $650. He was a great guy  full of good info worth every bit of the $96. In the meantime I think I've found another hydro transaxle -used- and am gonna try to install myself bar any real brain puzzlers. The Sears guy said not difficult to replace-disconnect brake and two bolts holds it in place. He said the front bearing was going out allowing the tranny to move upward thus the fan blades hitting the support bar. He showed me the movement of the tranny. But I may also try the other guy's suggestion on here -the drill a hole in top of tranny and ad gear oil first.
 I' m open to any and all suggestions any may want to send my way. I have loved this  hydrostaitic mower for the past 12 years with very little problems with it until the gear lever spring last year and now the showstopper transaxle.  I have very steep hills and about two acres to mow.
 The new models at Sears this year don't reccomend hydro for hills since they dont "pump" the oil to the gears thus good for flat only they say unlike they did when I bought mine in '01. But I think 11-12 years out of my mower is pretty damn good-that's why I hate to give it up for a bright red (yuk) 6 speed with a no mow reverse safety feature and less heavy duty deck and not twin V engine( louder). Send me all the help you fellas wanna tell me 'cause I intend to fix 'er up at this point.

You're lucky to have gotten 12 years out of that tranny based on your  conditions and use. It is most likely an entry level Tuff Torq or Hydro Gear transaxel without any means to change the transaxel fluid (a so-called sealed unit). Using a lawn tractor to mow on hilly terrain or pull heavy loads is the kiss of death for those light duty transaxels. You may want to consider a  used Garden Tractor (GT) as a replacement based on the much heavier duty (ground engaging) transaxel that is typically found on this type of tractor. Everything else on a GT is also much heavier duty and will last much longer than it would on an LT (Lawn Tractor).

You got your moneys worth out that LT and it earned it's keep but you may want to consider either a new LT (and hope for another 12 years) or spend a few extra bucks and get a GT that is more up to the task. "They don't make 'em like they used to" definitely applies to the tractor world (and other OPE as well) these days. Any tractor less than $2K is considered a disposable product with a limited shelf life, especially under the conditions you described. It would suck to replace the tranny and then have all kinds of other items start to fail and you end up spending more time (and money) fixing it than actually using it. Just something to consider...

If you have a Tuff Torq K46 hydro, you're not alone with problems. Those are very lightweight and will provide good service as long as you only mow on mostly flat ground. You can drop the transmission easily (6 bolts, belt, 2 linkages) and open it up to replace the oil, but you can also rebuild it yourself. It is also possible to upgrade it to a K66 model which is MUCH heavier and readily serviceable. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/164892-tufftorq-k46-repair-guide-pictures.html IMO, it is borderline fraud to call anything (and I don't care what brand it is) equipped with that K46 hydro a tractor. They're pure lawnmowers and doing anything else besides pulling a light cart is too much for them.

Yes, my LTX1000 is a hydro transaxle sealed so my understanding is that it cannot be rebuilt. I have used it 12 years on 1-1/2 acres of mostly hills and most fairly steep -usually takes about 2-1/2 to 3 hrs to mow all at same time. It has had wheel weights and chains on it the whole 12 years .  I've kept the oil changed and lubed every year. The hydro tranny is wonderful for hills to adjust the speed according to the condition-up,reverse and turns on the hills. I can't say enough good about this mower. That said I've taken the chance and purchased a used tranny from Florida (no hills) and should receive it soon. i hope that it all works out but still would like all the thoughts anyone may have on my upcoming project. Thanks !

It CAN be rebuilt - the Sears guy even quoted you a price for a rebuilt trans, right? - but it is considered not "user-serviceable". Sealed just means you have to open the case and replace the gasket (RTV) when you close it up again. Anyway, since you have another one the way, consider changing out the oil before you install it. The new one may not have a drain hole in which case you'll have to pry off the vent cover and flip the thing over a few times to drain it. You can just add as much as came out, but better to do some research and find out how much should be in there. If you're careful you can reinstall the same cover, but if you break it you'll have to buy a new one - not expensive by itself but shipping and possible minimum order charges may bite you.

I would definitely change out the dino oil and replace it with the same viscosity synthetic oil which has a much higher temperature tolerance. The Tuff Torq K46 transaxel calls for 1.9 litres of 10W30.