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nibbler |
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private |
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623 |
| Number of Posts |
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| Date Joined |
Mar 5, 2004 |
| Date Last Access |
Aug 17, 2008 9:01 am |
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Re: best brand
#1 Aug 17, 2008 9:00 am |
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This question gets posted every so often, generally without any criteria ( money, usage pattern, area to be cleared etc). Try doing searches in the archives there is a lot of good discussion there and you will get some guidance on how to ask the question.
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Re: to keep or not to keep
#2 Aug 17, 2008 8:56 am |
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Given that the unit is well maintained and working properly I'm guessing that it is a bit too heavy for you. Try going to a dealer and see if a slightly smaller machine is a better fit for your physique. I've found that the big units are less agile than the smaller units. They also require more muscle at times since they are bigger and heavier.
The sweet spot for me seems to be one size down (9/24) from what I have (10/26).
If you have to use more than a couple of pulls to start the unit then there is either an operator or maintenance issue. My first suspect would be gummed up carburetor. I'm surprised the unit doesn't have an electric start.
You don't state why you have problems getting the unit up the driveway. If the engine is on then it should be a matter of steering it up.
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Reformulated
#3 Aug 17, 2008 8:38 am |
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I suspect he means "no alcohol added". I've noticed that some gas stations state that their gas has "up to x%" alcohol added.Normally the percentage goes up as the grade goes down. I.E. Bronze is up to 10% while Silver is up to 5%. Normally premium is touted as 0%. I have had to replace gas lines ( cracking at the connections) and the dealer I bought the new lines from said that the alcohol was causing the lines to stiffen faster than normal.
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Re: Primer bulb does not squirt...
#4 Jun 8, 2008 7:12 pm |
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Things to check for: - Frayed or split tube going from bulb to carburetor, alchold in the gas is causing the rubber to stiffen a split faster than it used to;
- The tube and orfices are clear;
- There is gas in the tank and carburetor ( yes I've tried priming an engine with a dry tank, takes forever to get it going
); - Bulb isn't split and/or leaking;
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Re: Snowblower info website
#5 Jun 8, 2008 7:06 pm |
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I had a look at the site. Looks reasonable. Possible Corrections: - Chute, not shoot;
- I would argue that ease of chute control has sold more Toros than any thing else;
- Differential is one form of controlling how the wheels turn in relation to each other, pin lock and remote pin lock are the others, calling them forms of differential is misleading;
- Horsepower doesn't directly control throw distance, HP partially controls how much snow can been thrown per minute, if you exceed the capacity the machine bogs down and throwing distance suffers. Larger horsepower means more snow thrown per minute before you bog down. There's discussion about this but essentially it comes down to impeller RPM and diameter.
- Housing width determines the number of swaths you need to do. This may not be significant. If you start at the garage an even number of swaths gets you back to the garage, one less swath is odd and you end up at the end of the driveway and have to come back any way.
- For a given horsepower a smaller housing width will allow you to throw deeper snow at full speed without bogging down.
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