nibbler

Things to check for:

1. Frayed or split tube going from bulb to carburetor, alchold in the gas is causing the rubber to stiffen a split faster than it used to;
2. The tube and orfices are clear;
3. There is gas in the tank and carburetor ( yes I've tried priming an engine with a dry tank, takes forever to get it going );
4. Bulb isn't split and/or leaking;
   

I had a look at the site. Looks reasonable.

Possible Corrections:

1. Chute, not shoot;
2. I would argue that ease of chute control has sold more Toros than any thing else;
   
3. Differential is one form of controlling how the wheels turn in relation to each other, pin lock and remote pin lock are the others, calling them forms of differential is misleading;
4. Horsepower doesn't directly control throw distance, HP partially controls how much snow can been thrown per minute, if you exceed the capacity the machine bogs down and throwing distance suffers. Larger horsepower means more snow thrown per minute before you bog down. There's discussion about this but essentially it comes down to impeller RPM and diameter.
5. Housing width determines the number of swaths you need to do. This may not be significant. If you start at the garage an even number of swaths gets you back to the garage, one less swath is odd and you end up at the end of the driveway and have to come back any way.
6. For a given horsepower a smaller housing width will allow you to throw deeper snow at full speed without bogging down.
   

Check the thread, I posted all the things that I checked and "corrected".

The first thing I get suspicious of when it was easy to start and then hard to start after running is a heat problem. That's what I mentioned the "winter" setting. It could also imply a fuel/oil mix problem.

Have you used the saw much since it was serviced? If so I'd check the air filter. If not maybe the dealer will have suggestions.

The main suspect for my problem was the air filter, since I started cleaning and rotating between the two the problem seems to have gone away. I expect to test it out in the next month or two since I have about 3 cords to cut up.

Good luck.

You probably have water in the gas tank. Drain it, dry it, refill with fresh gas. Check the spark plug and replace if it shows any problems. For the time it takes I tend to replace the plug and clean the old one at my leisure, if it looks bad I get a new spare. Grease everything and hopefully away you go.

If you have continued problems check that you are getting spark at the spark plug and gas to the carburettor. Carburettor cleaner in the gas ( Seafoam has been recommended on other threads) once a year is also probably a good idea. A carb tune up every few years is also a good idea.

For mor ideas get a small engine repair book from the library and have fun.

Its kind of hard when you don't mention what specs you are looking at nor post a link to the spec your are referring to. I'll guess that its  probably the height of the auger housing and hence the maximum depth of snow that the blower can just plough through without having to back up regularly and "get the rest of it". This is the prime reason for going slower, the impeller can not get rid of the snow fast enough to keep the auger empty in deep snow at higher speeds.